CHENNAI: A bowl of ramen, a plate of Vietnamese rice rolls or a Sindhi-inspired dal pakwan transformed into hummus might not be the first things that come to mind when one thinks of a vegetarian café. At Beyond The Cup in Kilpauk, however, the menu is designed to challenge precisely those expectations. Founded by Ritesh and Ashish, the café was born out of a gap they identified in Kilpauk for a sophisticated dining space serving a varied global menu rather than the familiar rotation of South Indian, North Indian and Chinese offerings. They envisioned a place that could bring together families, younger diners and people looking for a comfortable spot to work or meet. A community table and a banquet hall for gatherings and celebrations are part of that vision. The founders worked closely with chef Mathangi on the menu and operations, combining their ideas with her culinary experience to create a café they hope will become a second home for visitors.
Chef Mathangi Kumar, who has worked at Summer House Eatery and Madco, brings her experience to the kitchen. Trained in French cuisine at Le Cordon Bleu, she approaches vegetarian cooking with an emphasis on ingredients, technique and the possibilities of regional food. “I wouldn’t particularly call it different. I think the only difference is we just did not want to be another place doing kebabs. We do not want to be another place doing some sabzi, some rice, you know, something for the sake of it,” she says.
For Mathangi, the challenge is to strike a balance between the familiar and the unexpected. She draws inspiration from regional traditions, the founders’ family recipes and techniques from other cuisines, without simply combining ingredients for novelty.
“I wanted to create a dish that's smack in the middle,” she says, explaining how she balances familiarity with surprise. The ingredients or flavours might be recognisable, but an unexpected flavour profile or accompaniment can make a dish more exciting.
Mathangi is careful about calling this approach fusion. “This is not fusion,” she says. “It's basically a fun take.”
Her philosophy is to preserve the essential character of a dish while finding new ways to present it. “The ingredient has to sing. The techniques have to be fantastic whether it’s veg or non-veg; it doesn’t matter. We should be able to ensure that the actual core ingredient of that particular dish shines.”
Mathangi also wants the menu to move beyond an overreliance on fried food, incorporating dishes with different textures and ingredients. Sustainability is another consideration, particularly when it comes to using ingredients across preparations and reducing kitchen waste.
The chef says she is equally conscious of the challenges of creating Jain-friendly food. Avoiding onion, garlic and certain other ingredients while maintaining complexity of flavour requires careful substitutions and close attention to the ingredients used in sauces and other prepared products. The aim, she says, is to ensure that diners who follow these dietary practices have interesting options rather than a limited selection of familiar dishes.
Mathangi is also keen to challenge the misconception that vegetarian food is inherently limited. She believes diners should experience the intricacies of vegetable-led cooking before dismissing it as repetitive.
We start with the cherry basil lemonade, a refreshing drink in which chunky cherries and fragrant basil give it enough character to stand on its own. The tantanmen ramen follows, with a creamy, slow-cooked peanut and sesame broth topped with steamed bok choy, edamame, corn kernels, chilli oil and fresh noodles. Unlike a regular ramen, it has a sweetness that might not appeal to everyone.
The vegetarian cream cheese shakshuka is another highlight. Served with toasted sourdough, its creamy preparation is a satisfying interpretation of the familiar dish, showing how a vegetarian version can retain its appeal without feeling like a compromise.
The million-layered aloo chaat, with green chutney, sweetened yoghurt, tamarind glaze, pomegranate and nylon sev, adds another playful option to the menu. The Malaysian butter paneer, meanwhile, pairs crunchy paneer with a buttery Malaysian-style sauce, fresh red chilli and curry leaves, offering a different take on familiar paneer dishes.
The dal pakwan hummus is an interesting idea. Inspired by a Sindhi dish that Mathangi first encountered through a recipe made by Ashish’s aunt, it reimagines the traditional combination as a spread served with crispy pakwan and a trio of chutneys. The idea was to make a familiar family preparation accessible in a different format, allowing diners to experience its flavours in a new way.
The dish that stands out most is the creamy mushroom crostini. Sourdough is topped with mascarpone mushroom sauce, sautéed mushrooms and feta, creating a rich, deeply satisfying combination. The chunky button mushrooms lend texture, while the creamy topping almost melts in the mouth. It is the kind of dish that makes you want to return for another bite, and easily the standout of the tasting.