CHENNAI: World Chocolate Day, observed on July 7, is a celebration of one of the world's most-loved treats. But behind every chocolate bar and dessert is an industry facing new challenges.
Poor cocoa harvests in West Africa, changing weather patterns and supply shortages have driven cocoa prices to record highs over the past year, leaving chocolatiers to absorb rising costs or pass them on to consumers.
In Chennai, however, bean-to-bar chocolate makers and pastry chefs say that while prices have increased, cutting corners is not an option. For L Nitin Chordia, chocolate taster and co-founder of Kocoatrait Sustainable Chocolates and Cocoashala, the conversation around chocolate should begin with understanding what consumers are actually buying.
"People often confuse handmade chocolates with handcrafted chocolates. Handmade chocolates are usually the ones sold in tourist destinations, where large chocolate blocks are melted and moulded into smaller pieces. Most of these use compound chocolate. Handcrafted or craft chocolates are very different. They begin with sourcing quality cocoa beans and every stage of production is carefully monitored,” says Nitin.
According to him, the difference between handcrafted and mass-produced chocolate starts long before the chocolate reaches the mould. "We work with fine cocoa beans and produce chocolate in small batches. From roasting and refining to conching, tempering and moulding, every step is carefully controlled. This preserves the natural complexity of cocoa and gives the chocolate greater depth of flavour, aroma and texture."
Mass-produced chocolates are designed for consistency and long shelf life. "They often contain more additives, preservatives and flavouring agents. Craft chocolate focuses on allowing the cocoa itself to speak. No two handcrafted chocolates are ever completely identical and that's part of their charm. Every batch reflects the skill of the chocolatier,” he smiles.
Working closely with cocoa farmers is equally important, says Nitin. "There is no option for a chocolate maker but to improve quality at the farm level. We spend a good amount of time working with farmers to improve post-harvest practices because that's where good chocolate begins."
As cocoa prices continue to rise globally, maintaining that quality has become increasingly challenging. Nitin believes consumers are aware of the value of craft chocolate. "People are becoming more interested in where their chocolate comes from and how it is made. Familiar flavours still dominate the market, but I think the future will see more people appreciating chocolates with higher cocoa percentages."
Among Kocoatrait's offerings, Nitin counts Masala Chai as one of his favourite dark chocolates because of the way the flavours evolve as he eats it. He also prefers the Irish Cream Coffee and Filter Coffee dark milk chocolates.
Outside Kocoatrait, Nitin says he enjoys Paul & Mike's Capers coated with milk chocolate for its ingredient quality and balance, Ziaho's 3 Berry bar for its use of quality ingredients and Anuttama's Bella Tharai for its flavour balance and familiarity.
While chocolate makers are dealing with rising ingredient costs, pastry chefs face a similar challenge in their kitchens. Hasnain Abbas, founder and head pastry chef at Bakestagramz, says the price of chocolate has increased steadily over the past few years. "Chocolate prices have definitely risen quickly.
To address that, we focus on improving our operational efficiency to reduce costs without compromising the quality of the chocolate we use. Increasing product prices is usually the last thing we consider,” says Hasnain.
Unlike other ingredients, chocolate cannot simply be reduced or substituted, he says.
"We never think of it that way. Whatever amount of chocolate has to be used, we stick to that. There's no substitute for chocolate." The same philosophy applies to his signature desserts. "We haven't redesigned them because of rising cocoa prices. They're signature desserts for a reason. We don't want to compromise."
He observes that customers looking for premium desserts are generally aware of the difference between regular and high-quality chocolate. "When it comes to premium chocolate desserts, people understand different grades of chocolate and are willing to spend a little extra for quality,” shares the pastry chef.
Chef Narayanamurthi, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, says the rise in cocoa prices has encouraged the team to rethink how they use chocolate, but not the quality of what reaches diners. "While cocoa prices have risen significantly, we have not compromised on offering chocolate-based desserts. Instead, we have focused on careful planning and efficient sourcing to ensure our guests continue to enjoy the same quality and experience," he says.
The hotel continues to use premium couverture chocolate in desserts where its flavour and texture are integral. "In applications where it is technically appropriate, we use high-quality compound chocolate without compromising the overall taste, texture or guest experience," he explains.
Narayanamurthi believes customers who opt for premium desserts understand the value of quality ingredients and are generally willing to pay for them. "For other guests, we take the opportunity to explain the global increase in cocoa prices and the importance of using good-quality chocolate. Most appreciate the transparency and continue to value well-crafted desserts."
Rather than removing signature desserts from the menu, the team has refined its recipes to make better use of chocolate. "We now use chocolate more purposefully, allowing it to remain the hero ingredient while complementing it with premium nuts, seasonal fruits and other flavours that enhance the overall dessert experience. To manage rising ingredient costs, the kitchen has focused on improving efficiency.
We've strengthened inventory management, improved production planning, minimised wastage and optimised portion control. Our focus has always been on smarter operations rather than reducing quality," he adds.