As appetisers came varutha kozhi (fried chicken), vazhai ilai chicken where the meat is cooked in a banana leaf, mutton pepper chukka and eral thokku (prawns in a thick paste). The mutton nearly melted in our mouths with every bite and the flavours were beautifully balanced. Given a choice, we would have skipped both the chicken starters as they are commonly found, didn’t do much for our palate and were quite heavy, disabling us to enjoy the rest of our meal.

We saw a dip in our enthusiasm to relish the main course that comprised a deep-fried parotta, which came with three gravies, namely chicken, mutton and fish. Was it a bit too much after eating two deep-fried starters? Definitely yes. Second came the kari dosa — we had great expectations because this non-vegetarian dish is an unsaid ‘icon’ of Madurai but we were deeply disappointed. The chicken keema lacked flavour and because such a thick layer was spread above what looked more like an uthapam than a dosa, it remained half-cooked.

Moreover, before our meal, we were told that the restaurant’s specialty is their biriyani, made from seeraga samba rice. We had to learn from a conversation happening at the next table that no variant of biriyani was served for dinner. Thankfully, the vanjiram kozhambu (king fish curry) with steamed white rice, served with a karuvaadu thokku (dried fish in a thick paste) made up for the dismay.

A plate containing three sweets, all made from palm jaggery, was served as dessert. The coconut barfi really stood out among the peda and mysurpa. Too full to even breathe, we trudged out of the restaurant satisfied with the service more than the food.