CHENNAI: Chettinad cuisine is known for its distinctive spice blends and rich culinary traditions. At Kalpaasi, founder Ramesh Palaniappan presents familiar flavours in unexpected ways, from flavour-infused burger buns to taco tarts and an adhirasam-inspired dessert. For Ramesh, the idea is personal. “Chettinad is a part of my identity, my culture and my heritage. It is something I associate deeply with family, our traditions and the food we grow up knowing,” he says.
Rather than opening another conventional restaurant, he wanted to introduce these flavours to a generation more familiar with burgers and tacos. “The idea was never to change our food or move away from our roots. It was to take the flavours and heritage that are part of who we are and express them through something contemporary, like burgers and tacos,” he explains.
For non-vegetarians, Kalpaasi’s menu offers its own spin on Chettinad favourites, with the Signature Mutton Chettinad Burger leading the line-up. The menu also features a Mixed Seafood Burger, Chicken Chettinad Burger, Prawn Ghee Roast Taco Tart and Karuveppilai Prawn Pita.
Curated by Ramesh, the burger menu offers buns in flavours such as carrot ajwain, beetroot fennel, five-spice spinach, coriander chilli and tomato curry leaf, paired with vegetarian or non-vegetarian fillings and sauces.
We sampled the mixed vegetable patty burger in a tomato curry leaf bun with the chef’s special sauce. Hearty and satisfying, it had a spicy kick, while the bun added its own flavour.
“My philosophy while curating the menu was that every dish should have its own identity. I didn't want to put together a menu simply because certain items were popular or trending. I wanted every combination to have a reason to exist, with flavours that complement each other and create an experience people would remember,” says Ramesh.
The team experimented with ingredients, spices and textures to ensure each component worked with the others. Adapting Chicken 65 into a burger was a particular challenge. “Chicken 65 is a dish people know extremely well, and that familiarity raises the bar,” he says.
The starters offer more reinterpretations. Pallipalayam paneer draws on a preparation usually associated with chicken, while Karuveppillai soya provides a vegetarian alternative. Both are served with pita bread. Among the accompanying dips, garlic coriander stands out for its bold flavour, while gongura brings a tangy, spicy profile. Mint chilli, spicy mustard, honey ginger and spicy tamarind are other options.
The taco tarts offer further experimentation. The mushroom pepper fry version delivers a pronounced pepper flavour, while the smashed avocado tart was the surprise of the tasting. Topped with raw onions and tomatoes, its filling brought to mind aloo chaat.
For Ramesh, the aim is to introduce familiar flavours in new forms. “Culture has always evolved, and I believe food can evolve too, as long as you understand what you're working with and respect where it comes from,” he says.
Ramesh's childhood food memories include his grandmother's mutton uppu kari, apple halwa and kathirikkai peratal. “Those dishes have stayed with me, not just for their flavours but for the memories and cultural heritage associated with them,” he says.
The drinks draw on tradition, too. Kalpaasi serves nannari sharbat in lemon, watermelon, pineapple and apple variations. The passion fruit version stood out during our tasting, adding a refreshing twist without overpowering the familiar flavour.
The interiors combine traditional Chettinad aesthetics and tiles with a contemporary setting. The concept centres on the thinnai, the raised veranda traditionally found in Chettinad homes. “For me, Kalpaasi was never meant to be just about the food. I wanted the space to reflect the culture and heritage behind the brand,” says Ramesh.
He wanted to recreate the spirit of the thinnai, where people gather and welcome guests, without replicating an old Chettinad home. “I wanted people to feel welcomed the moment they walked in, as though they were entering a home rather than just a restaurant. For me, hospitality is about making people feel they belong,” he says.
The adhirasam cake is worth saving room for. The traditional Tamil sweet is softened with egg and topped with jaggery sauce, giving it the texture and richness of sticky toffee pudding. The result retains the flavours of a familiar bakshanam while offering a new presentation.
The Kavuni cheesecake takes a different approach, pairing a Marie Gold biscuit base and cold cheesecake with a warm black rice preparation. The temperature contrast makes for an unusual dessert.
Nannari sharbat costs Rs 99-179 and desserts are priced at Rs 249 each, with burgers and starters available at different price points. Ramesh says accessibility, particularly for younger diners, was a conscious decision. “I don't believe that innovation should automatically make food expensive or exclusive,” he says. “For me, the real success of Kalpaasi would be seeing these flavours reach more people, especially a younger generation, and becoming something they genuinely enjoy.”
The restaurant also lets lunch diners choose their preferred rice, sambar and poriyal instead of ordering a fixed meal, giving them greater control over portions and helping reduce food waste.
Ramesh hopes to expand Kalpaasi into more cities and explore new ways to present Chettinad flavours. Chettinad vendakkai mandi, a traditional preparation, is among the possible additions to the menu.