CHENNAI: Every time Chennai’s food culture is discussed, the spotlight invariably falls on idli, dosa and filter coffee. Yet two dishes that have become synonymous with the city often remain on the fringes of the conversation — Vadacurry and Chicken 65. Though they may have emerged from vastly different circumstances their stories offer a fascinating glimpse into Chennai’s culinary evolution and why preserving such food histories matters.
Few dishes are as closely associated with Chennai’s set dosa culture as Vadacurry It is widely associated with Chennai’s tiffin culture, particularly the areas around Triplicane, Mylapore and North Chennai. The most repeated origin story is that it emerged as a way to avoid wasting unsold masala vadas. Leftover vadas from the day would be crumbled into a spicy onion-tomato gravy and served alongside dosa, especially set dosa. Over time, the “leftover solution” became a dish in its own right and is now inseparable from Chennai’s tiffin scene.
Today, Vadacurry remains a staple in a handful of traditional eateries, even though it has never achieved the widespread fame of other South Indian dishes. Food historian and MasterChef India Tamil judge Chef Rakesh Raghunathan points to this practical origin.” Back in the day, it was also a masala vada that was not sold, which was made into a Vadacurry. One way of looking at it is how people managed with what leftovers they had and ade something productive out of it,” he says
Food researcher Yogita Uchik believes their origins reflect the city’s diversity.
While Vadacurry was an accidental dish, Chicken 65 was made to go on the menu. Both dishes talk of the food diversity of Chennai,” she says.
Chicken 65 is prepared using bite-sized chicken pieces marinated in a mixture of red chilli powder, ginger-garlic paste, curd, lemon juice and aromatic spices. The chicken is then coated with flour or starch and deep-fried until crisp on the outside while remaining juicy within.
Introduced at Buhari Hotelon Mount Road (Anna Salai) in Chennai in 1965, Over the decades, it moved far beyond the city’s borders to become one of India’s most recognisable chicken preparations and remains one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. The exact reason behind the name remains debated It was introduced in 1965, It was item number 65 on the menu. Soldiers ordered it by number because of language barriers.
No single explanation has been conclusively proven, but the connection to Buhari Hotel and Chennai is widely accepted.
“Anything that is fried is compatible to be given as a cocktail snack or finger food. Chicken 65 is universal. There is a fried chicken in every part of India and Chicken 65 adds to that,” Rakesh explains.
“I think it talks about how non-vegetarians dine out more often than vegetarians,” Yogita says. This, she believes, may partly explain why Chicken 65 gained national popularity while Vadacurry remained largely regional.
Rakesh Raghunathan points out that many culinary origin stories are shaped by oral histories and narratives that have been passed down through generations. While debates around exact origins may continue, there is little doubt that both dishes have earned a place in Chennai’s culinary memory. “Like our monuments, art, birds and animals, our recipes are also going extinct and there is an urgent need to preserve them,” says Yogita, pointing to the growing need to archive and celebrate regional food traditions. Perhaps that is what makes these dishes so compelling. One emerged from a desire to minimise waste; the other was created to entice customers. Yet both have endured for decades, becoming part of Chennai’s collective culinary memory which deserves the spotlight .