CHENNAI: Adish that lasts for decades always has a story behind it. In a city where menus constantly evolve and new food trends emerge every season, a handful of dishes have stood the test of time, continuing to attract diners year after year. We look at some signature dishes that have remained on hotel menus for years and the stories behind their enduring popularity.
Vikas Milhoutra, Area Culinary Director South and Executive Chef at Taj Coromandel, says Southern Spice is one of the country’s most iconic South Indian specialty restaurants, offering a quintessential regional dining experience since its inception. “Two signature dishes that have remained fiercely popular at Southern Spice are kair katti yerachi kola urundai and elaneer payasam,” he says.
Kair katti yerachi kola urundai is a fennel-flavoured lamb dumpling wrapped in banana fibre, a specialty from the Thanjavur region and a must-have for meat lovers. “While researching unique regional dishes for the restaurant’s relaunch in 2012, our culinary team came across the recipe through the family of the late Sivaji Ganesan. And the dish comes with an interesting story. “Kair katti yerachi kola urundai was often served to the bride and groom at weddings as an ice-breaker. The challenge was to unwind the banana fibre using just one hand. Whoever managed it first was believed to have the upper hand in the marriage,” says Vikas with a smile. Another dish that has earned a permanent place on the menu is elaneer payasam, a chilled, tender-coconut delicacy. “It is a recipe from the MRF Mammen family and is believed to require nearly 40 tender coconuts for every serving,” he says. The payasam strikes a delicate balance between reduced milk, coconut milk, jaggery and tender coconut kernel. “While it appears simple, the key lies in balancing the sweetness and using only the most tender kernels. It also has to be consumed within six hours of preparation,” adds Vikas.
At Hyatt Regency Chennai, two dishes continue to enjoy a loyal following: Sichuan-style chilli chicken at Stix and porcini risotto at Focaccia. Chef Manish Uniyal, Executive Chef, says guests who return after several years still ask for these dishes. “They were conceptualised by the chefs who launched the restaurants. At Stix, the dish was created by a Sichuan chef, while at Focaccia, it was developed by the Italian chef who opened the restaurant. The recipes and presentation have remained unchanged over the years,” he says.
The Sichuan-style chilli chicken, meanwhile, is known for its distinctive flavour profile. Prepared with chicken, red chillies, Sichuan peppercorns and simple seasoning, the dish delivers the characteristic tingling sensation associated with Sichuan cuisine. “It is not necessarily spicy or pungent. The flavour is very unique and enjoyable. It is a simple dish, but it has remained one of our best sellers since the restaurant opened,” he shares.
At The Flying Elephant in Park Hyatt Chennai, the lamb adana kebab has remained a guest favourite for more than a decade. Chef Dhanraj Manogaran, Executive Sous Chef, says the signature dish was introduced by the hotel’s Turkish chef during the restaurant’s opening, bringing authentic Turkish flavours to the menu. Made with finely minced lamb and traditional spices, the kebab is grilled to perfection and served with sumac onions, warm Turkish bread and garlic aioli. “Over the years, the lamb adana kebab has become synonymous with The Flying Elephant. Many guests request it not only at the restaurant but also for special occasions and events hosted at the hotel,” he says.
Another dish with a story is the wheat husk pockets, inspired by the chef’s time working in Goa, where poee bread forms an integral part of the local food culture. “Fascinated by its simplicity, nutrition and versatility, the chef wanted to bring a modern interpretation of the Goan classic to The Flying Elephant,” says Dhanraj.
A few years ago, while developing the menu, the team transformed the traditional poee bread into wheat husk pockets filled with ingredients such as minced lamb, falafel and halloumi cheese. The dish quickly gained popularity for its healthy appeal, vibrant flavours and unique backstory. “It shows how regional inspirations can be transformed into memorable dining experiences while staying true to their roots,” he adds.
At Peshawri in ITC Grand Chola, two iconic dishes continue to be among the restaurant’s most cherished signatures: dal bukhara and sikandari raan. Dal bukhara is slow-cooked overnight using whole black lentils, tomatoes and fresh cream. Known for its rich, smoky flavour and remarkable simplicity, it remains one of the restaurant’s most sought-after dishes.
“We have many repeat diners who return specifically for dal bukhara,” says Chef Nikhil Nagpal, Executive Chef, ITC Grand Chola. Equally popular is Sikandari Raan, a whole leg of lamb marinated in robust NorthWest Frontier spices and cooked until tender. “Guests often come back specifically for these dishes, and many families have made them part of celebrations and traditions that span generations,” the chef says
In an industry where menus are constantly refreshed, these dishes have managed to endure. Whether it is a recipe passed down through families, a chef’s regional inspiration or a commitment to consistency, each one carries a story that continues to resonate with diners.