Four friends, Ayesha, Sumalatha, Veni, and Sharada, study together at a college in Thrissur. Three were from Mahe and they couldn’t go back home because of lockdown. Ayesha hailed from Chavakkad, a municipality in Thrissur district, Kerala, where her father runs a naturopathy clinic. I was also at the clinic when the first lockdown was announced. Ayesha’s father, Suleiman decided to bring back his daughter home. Upon reaching the college hostel, he understood that Ayesha’s friends weren’t able to go home. Suleiman asked his daughter’s friends to come along as they had a huge mansion where they all could stay. The only problem he felt was that Ramadan holy month had just started and they were fasting and could eat only before sunrise and after sunset. The compassionate gesture touched the girls and they decided to follow Ramadan fast along with Ayesha and her family. They enjoyed the iftar and suhoor meals and learned the significance of fasting. The iftar dishes included, dates, fresh fruits, masala nombu kanji, veg and mutton biryani, arikadukka, different kinds of pathiri, coconut-milk balls, tapioca pudding, kilsa, omana pola, etc. A variety of vegetarian dishes like stew and appams were made for vegetarians like Sharada and Veni. I also got to taste most of it as I was the only occupant left at the clinic.

When the lockdown was partially lifted on April 4, the girls left to Mahe in a private car. I also shifted base to another place in Guruvayur. During my stay in Chavakkad, I learned about another faith and the amazing variety of heritage dishes. Out of all the dishes, pathiri stood out for its uniqueness and originality. There were so many different types of pathiris to choose from but erachi pathiri won everyone’s stomach.

 — Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of ‘Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes’ 

INGREDIENTS