CHENNAI: There was a time when recipes weren't measured with spoons or written in cookbooks. They were learnt by watching grandmothers patiently roast spices, stone grind masalas and stir clay pots over a slow fire.
Ancient grains found their way into everyday meals, medicinal herbs were valued as much for their healing properties as their flavour, and every region had its own culinary identity. While many of these recipes have quietly faded from today's kitchens, Southern Spice at Taj Coromandel is bringing them back through Forgotten Flavours of the South.
This limited-period culinary experience celebrates the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.
But with countless forgotten recipes across the South, what made the team choose these particular dishes? Sous Chef T Jabaraj of Taj Coromandel says the menu was curated to represent recipes that were once deeply rooted in everyday life but are now rarely prepared.
"Our concept was to bring back dishes that people have almost stopped cooking at home. We followed our grandmothers' recipes, looked at the ingredients and grains that were traditionally used, and chose dishes that best represented the culinary identity of each region," he says. Extensive research led the team to traditional recipes, conversations with home cooks and even organic farms to source heritage rice varieties that are no longer commonly available.
As the chef begins to explain the menu, the dishes arrive at the table. Starting with the Thuthuvalai Rasam, with its gentle peppery warmth and medicinal herb notes, it brings the comforting flavours of home. Thinai Paniyaram, Varagu Adai with Aviyal and Ragi Mudde with Uppu Saaru celebrate millets that once formed the backbone of South Indian diets, while accompaniments such as Ellu, Pirandai and Nellikai Thuvayal reflect ingredients that have slowly disappeared from our kitchens.
Among the stars of the meal was the Chettinad Kaalan Peratal, where mushrooms absorbed the bold flavours of freshly roasted spices, black pepper and fennel, resulting in a dish that was deeply aromatic yet balanced. Equally memorable was the Kalyana Veetu Paruppu Urundai Kuzhambu, where soft lentil dumplings soaked up the tangy tamarind gravy without losing their delicate texture, paired with the rustic Kuzhiyadichan Choru, a type of rice most of us would have never heard of. The Mapillai Samba Pongal, with generous amounts of ghee, black pepper, cumin and ginger, stood out for its rich flavour.
For the chef, authenticity begins with the ingredients themselves. "Sourcing heritage ingredients requires extra effort because they are produced in smaller quantities and are available only through trusted farmers and speciality suppliers," he explains. "Mapillai Samba and Kavuni rice have distinct texture, flavour and nutritional value, while Thuthuvalai leaves add both medicinal benefits and a unique taste. These ingredients are the heart of the recipes."
"We aimed to preserve the authenticity of every region rather than standardise the flavours. While maintaining consistency in a professional kitchen, we respected each dish's original character, ensuring guests experience the true taste of its place of origin," he explains.
"Each dish has its own unique cooking style. The Chettinad Kaalan Peratal gets its bold flavour from freshly roasted spices, fennel, black pepper and slow cooking." Jabaraj believes the Kuzhiyadichan Choru best captures the essence of the festival. Once prepared in village homes for family gatherings and festive occasions, the one-pot rice dish embodies what the menu seeks to preserve. "It reflects the wisdom of our ancestors, using locally grown ingredients, freshly ground spices and slow cooking to create a wholesome, flavourful meal. Reviving this dish is about preserving our culinary heritage and sharing those stories with a new generation."
The meal concludes with desserts such as Karupatti Kavuni Arisi Halwa, Ragi Simili Urundai and, the cherry on the cake, the wholesome Navadhanya Payasam. They bring a comforting and nostalgic touch to the feast. Chef Jabaraj proudly points out that every dessert is sweetened only with jaggery, making that extra spoonful feel a lot less guilty. Just when it seemed the feast had finally reached its finale, a refreshing glass of Thalicha Moru, followed by an aromatic cup of Sukku Malli Coffee, made for a fitting end to the menu.