Chennai

Bin Bulaye Baraati (2011), a mystery comedy film as the name suggests, boasted of a huge line-up of comedians and stars, each one a class by themselves. Johnny Lever, Sanjay Mishra, Rajpal Yadav, Vijay Raaz, Manoj Joshi, late Om Puri, Gulshan Grover, Shakti Kapoor and Aftab Shivdasani and Priyanka Kothari in the lead roles. 

My friend, Chandrakant Singh, was the director. As I had helped him with casting, I got the special privilege of travelling with them to Goa. All on board for Goa, Christmas was surely going to be filled with fun and laughter. Never have I spent crazier and happier days than in Goa, interacting with the wonderful, creative people, helping out wherever I could with the film.

Food was a vital subject during our discussions. I wanted to explore more than just the beautiful Calangute Beach or Panjim and its traditional markets. So, I took off while the filming was on, walking through the narrow lanes with Portuguese houses all around, and chatter in Konkani and Portuguese flowing out of the varied windows. 

The doors were open and the families were busy exchanging cakes and goodies as Christmas was nearing. Goa is the home to some extremely old heritage Portuguese houses, many of which have existed for the past four centuries at least. These houses were built soon after the conquest of Goa by the Portuguese in the early 16th century. Adventurous travellers who ventured inland were rewarded by a landscape filled with spice plantations, astonishing buildings and verdant paddy fields.

The Portuguese legacy is richly evident, and perhaps, nowhere more delightful, than in Goa’s burgeoning food scene. Months could be spent exploring the restaurants, villas and homes offering a tantalising cuisine that joyfully sings of Latin and Konkani cultures.

This was truly the old world charm of Goa, where the smell of cooking assailed one’s senses. I was drawn towards one of the prominent homes in the area, Palacio de Deão in Quepem. A privileged glimpse into Goa’s ancient regime, this restored 18th century Indo-Portuguese manor offers guests a tour of its beautiful gardens, interiors and a chance to indulge in a home-cooked five-course meal with charming hosts Ruben and Celia Vasco de Gama.

The garlic roasted fish was sublime, as were the traditional nevris and a pumpkin dessert. What fascinated me was the nevris, and I decided to go make it for the film unit, who were busy acting. The unit cook was excellent and picked up new recipes and dishes wherever he went. Right in the heart of Goa, we got ready to celebrate Christmas with the heritage dish, nevris. Everyone loved the dish, and it became a signature dish that Christmas.

Nevris, made during important festivals, have been a long-standing tradition during Christmas. You can serve them warm, or at room temperature. 

Sweet Nevris

Ingredients

Whole wheat flour: 1/2 cup

Refined flour (maida): 1/2 cup

Ghee: 3 1/2 tbsp

Refined oil: 5 cups

Water: As required

Salt: 1/4 tsp

Freshly grated coconut: 1 cup

Grated jaggery: 1 cup

Cardamom powder: 1/2 tsp

Almonds: 8 chopped finely

Cashew nuts: 8 chopped finely

Golden raisins: 1 tbsp chopped finely

Walnuts: 5 chopped finely

Method

Pre-preparation

• Mix the whole wheat flour, refined flour with salt in a bowl. Keep aside. 
• Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a small pan. Once hot, add the ghee to the flour and salt mixture. 
• Allow the ghee to cool down. Using your fingers, rub the melted ghee into the flour, giving the flour a bread crumb-like texture. 
• Add 1/4 cup water and begin to knead the dough. 
• The dough should neither be too soft nor too thick. Wrap the dough with a damp muslin or cotton cloth. Allow it to rest for 10-12 minutes. 
• For the filling inside, melt a tablespoon of ghee in a pan and add a cup of freshly grated coconut.
• Stir and sauté the coconut for two minutes on low heat. Add in the chopped cashews, almonds, walnuts and raisins. 
• Now, add in one cup of grated jaggery. Stir well and saute the mixture for 2-3 minutes on low flame. Turn off the heat and sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of cardamom powder. 
• Transfer the mixture onto a plate and allow it to come to room temperature. 
• Meanwhile, uncover the dough and knead it lightly again. Roll it and form a log, and cut it into equal portions. 
• Roll each piece of dough between the palms of your hands and gently flatten into a round or oval shape. 
• Dust some flour over the oval/round shaped portioned dough. Roll the dough into 4-5 inch diameter circle. 
• Brush some water on the edges of the circles. Place a tablespoon of the stuffing in the centre of the circle, keeping the edges empty. 
• Make sure you don’t over stuff as it becomes difficult to shape the nevris. 
• Fold from one side and seal the edges properly. With your fingertips, start pinching and pleating the pressed edges. 
• Keep pleating till 
• you reach the end. Ensure the edges are sealed properly as they might break while frying if not closed. 
• Prepare all the nevris in the same manner. 
• Keep the prepared nevris covered in a moist kitchen towel so they don’t dry out.

Preparation 

• Take a pan and pour 4 cups of oil in it. Once hot, deep fry the nevris one or two at a time. Cook on medium heat. 
• Once one side is crisp and golden, flip to the other side and cook for even browning and cooking. 
• Remove the nevris onto kitchen paper towels to absorb excess oil, if any. Once nevris cool down, store them in an air-tight container. You can also refrigerate for longer shelf life. 
• Serve the Goan nevris warm or at temperature.

Kitchen Tips

• Fresh coconut is usually added in the nevris, but you could use desiccated coconut as well 
• In Goa, palm jaggery is used for the recipe. You can replace it with regular jaggery too 

— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of ‘Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes’

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