CHENNAI: The aromas arrive even before the elevator reaches Sky on The Residency Towers. A curl of coconut steam, the smoky whisper of satay on charcoal, the citrusy heat of laksa, and suddenly we feel like sitting in the middle of restaurants nestled among Jalan Ampang’s skyscrapers on a pleasant evening in Kuala Lumpur. Inspired from the Malay, Chinese and Indian traditions, the cuisine is a study of striking the right balance-- sweet meeting spice, tamarind cutting through richness, pandan and palm sugar softening the edges.
For Chennai’s seasoned palate, no stranger to bold gravies and coastal humidity, the transition feels surprisingly seamless. Yet there is discovery with every bite, from fragrant nasi lemak to delicately folded kuih.
As we reach the 20th floor of the hotel in T Nagar, we are stunned by the ambience of the restaurant, boasting both indoor and rooftop seating. Especially the outdoor seating, one could enjoy the lip-smacking dishes and be carried away by the skyline of the city and the view of the Marina Beach in the horizon.
And, we visited the diner for its ongoing Malaysian food festival till March 1. Speaking to DT Next, chef Ajeeth, culinary director of The Residency group of hotels, says, “Post Covid 19, it’s been quite challenging, with people looking for different and unique dining options. We wanted to offer an elevated dining experience for our guests and also take on tasks that challenge our skills as chefs. That’s how we started doing pop-ups.” The diner invites chefs from different regions to showcase their expertise to Chennai.
In that line, chef Fitri is showcasing the taste of Malaysia. Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, his signature styles are smoky grills, bold flavours and fiery sambal. With the ongoing food festival, he has brought the soul of Malaysia, including rendang, char kway teao, nasi lemak, gado gado and rojak.
When it comes to Malaysian cuisine, chef Ajeeth shares that it has different facets. “The cuisine has influence from the native Malaysians, people who settled there from other regions like India, and also the Dutch. The Peranakan cuisine is a blend of all these,” notes the chef with three decades of experience in the culinary field.
After delving deep into the cuisine, we sit to immerse ourselves in the flavours of Malay. The classic Malaysia rojak buah, which is a fruit salad with spicy palm sugar, is refreshing. The Indonesian-style keraby kangkong with Chinese spinach should be on the list of fitness enthusiasts. For the non-vegetarians, the kerabu udang, which is a classic prawn salad, is a must-try, especially for the tender prawns. The popia goreng, veg spring roll with chilli sauce, is quite crispy.
The vibrant flavours of the grilled king oyster mushrooms in cendawan bakar bersama lada hitam hit the right spot. We love the otak otak, a fish cake wrapped with coconut leaf. The spicy sauce adds an extra layer to the dish.
The meat in kepak ayam bakar madu (honey chicken wings) is quite juicy. Next comes the iconic dish of Malaysia, satay. The chicken and lamb satay, accompanied by peanut sauce, gets a ten-on-ten for its succulent meat and smoky flavour.
In the main course, jasmine rice with rendang daging is delicious and exotic. The veg lovers can opt for pak choy stir with mixed vegetables. Ending the spread on a sweet note, we wrap up with the Malaysian sweet potato donut. The sugary glaze and sticky texture make it blissful.