Breaking the size barrier: Plus size fashion finds its voice in Chennai

CHENNAI: For Asha Inbaraj, a plus-size influencer, her mother was the first person to body shame her. And it is the same for many of us. Judgemental tones start within the family. The inferiority complex seeps in so deeply that people tend to confine themselves to a shell of self-doubt.

Remember when shopping for clothes meant squeezing into society’s idea of “acceptable”? When body shaming was disguised as fashion critique? Not anymore. Over the past decade, the tide has turned. Plus-size fashion has evolved from being a niche to a celebration — one that is bold, expressive, and body-positive. Designers are breaking barriers, and men and women are reclaiming the mirror with a smile that says, “This is me, and I look fabulous.”

Trends: Not for plus-size

If we step into any plus-size clothing store, all we can see are regular designs. The range of style options is quite limited. One of the pioneers of plus-size fashion in India, fashion designer Tina Vincent, says, “We should impose the fast-changing fashion on plus-size clothing. Trends do not apply here. One needs to wear what works for one’s body type because each plus-size person is different. And we need to stop forcing the Western mindset in India.”

On the other hand, Asha feels isolated when she witnesses other people happily being a part of the trend. “FOMO hits different. When the pleated skirt trend was blooming, like many other girls, I also wanted to try it. But I couldn’t because of a lack of options and the judgemental comments from society,” she recalls.

Is plus-size clothing affordable?

This is the big question that keeps nagging in our minds. DT Next learns that there is a mixed opinion on the pricing. The founder of the Tina Vincent label, Tina, remarks, “Today, there are enough affordable options for plus-size women. This is with regard to daily wearables. But if you are looking for fashionable stuff, then it comes with a price.” Her concern lies with the quality of the garments.

Being a plus-size person herself, Tina adds that people are a lot more confident now. “The urge to fit into the expectations of society has considerably reduced. Accepting and embracing our true selves is taking centre stage,” she notes.

Akhshaya Navaneethan, a fashion designer, states that the making cost is much higher for plus-size clothing compared to others.

Representation matters

Akhshaya Navaneethan, the first plus-size model from the South to walk the Lakme Fashion Week ramp, believes that mainstream representation and opportunities will be a game-changer. “In 2019, I went bald to donate my hair for cancer patients. Those photoshoot images gained global recognition. After that, I received opportunities in the North, but not in the South. Even for products related to plus-size models, we choose lean models for the promotion. I wanted to break that taboo,” she states.

During her childhood, Akhshaya was fascinated by the shimmering fashion world. But the response she got to pursue her dreams was to reduce her size. Now a fashion designer, she started taking inspiration from plus-size models on Instagram. “Our size, hair, or fashion doesn’t define who we are. We do not fit into the standard beauty standards, and that is our uniqueness.”

To bring in more opportunities for plus-size models, Akhshaya started working with homegrown brands. But it didn’t last long. “Now, the time is changing. Opportunities are flourishing. Still, representation is lacking. Mainstream media should become inclusive of different sizes, colours, and more,” says the 30-year-old.

After losing hope in the mainstream media, as she faced rejections for her looks, Asha is now leaning towards social media. “People are flaunting their curves and embracing how they look. That’s how normalisation feels. It is high time fashion brands hire plus-size models,” the 34-year-old influencer hopes. She also shares that the Indian film industry can take inspiration from Western series, where the representation is tactful and impactful.

Chennai needs more acceptance

“If we wear a saree, people will not mind noticing us. But for a plus-size woman, wearing a modern outfit always comes with a two-minute stare from the public. Yes, there are a lot of plus-size options now in the city. But Chennai needs to be receptive,” starts Asha, who moved to Chennai from Madurai in 2012.

Coming from a quite conservative background, the openness in city life felt liberating for her. “My mom considered my size a disability. It was agonising to recall the past. When I joined the performing arts, I had to break out of my shell and drop my past baggage. It was my friends and mentors who pulled me out of the vicious circle of body negativity,” she adds.

There was a time when plus-size people had to prepare themselves before stepping out of their homes. “Even now, it is mentally tiring and frustrating. In Bengaluru, I witnessed a lot more acceptance than in Chennai,” Asha notes.

Body positivity

“The core reason why I wanted to be a plus-size influencer is that my whole teenage life was spent with the fear of judgement. Now, when I get messages from teenagers appreciating my content as it helps them to come out of the dark loop, it heals the child in me who longed for self-love,” says Asha, who believes that society’s mouth cannot be shut. It is we who need to be the anchor of change.

“The motto is to unlearn the years of negativity from family, friends, and society, and learn to embrace the inner child, accept the looks, and come out bold and beautiful.”

The unheard screams of men

Men are always left out of the debates and discussions about fashion. Even in this context, men live a painful life silently. Bhavesh Saiya, owner of Choice Centre All Sizes in Mylapore, ventured into the space for his brother-in-law. “Whenever we go shopping, it is always difficult to find the right size without hurting his emotions. So, I wanted to create a space where plus-size men feel confident and comfortable. We wanted to address the mental agony and reduce the complexity,” he states.

Bhavesh affirms that fast fashion options don’t apply to plus-size people. “For them, clothing is more about being comfortable rather than fashionable.”

Giving us insights into the psychological perspective, the 49-year-old notes that plus-size men always go shopping with someone. “All they want is validation for their choices and how they feel. It is easy for us to say, ‘Be confident.’ But it is essential to create a space where they feel confident without being forced to. All we need to do is give them the right options and validate their choices,” he concludes.