Kannagi temple in ruins; no access road via TN

THENI: In the hills near Gudalur in Theni district, the Mangala Devi Kannagi temple reflects a long cultural history, even as questions over access and upkeep continue among devotees.

Located in the Vengakkanal area of the Paliyankudi hill region, the temple is believed to be around 1,800 years old. It is associated with Kannagi, the central figure of the Tamil epic Silappadikaram. The structure is said to have been built by the Chera king Senguttuvan using stones brought from the Himalayas. The site lies about 4,380 feet above sea level.

The temple opens to devotees during the Chithra Pournami festival each year. This year, the festival was held on May 1, with more than 30,000 devotees from Tamil Nadu and Kerala attending.

Visitors take two main routes. From Tamil Nadu, devotees walk about 6.5 km through a forest path from Paliyankudi. From Kerala, devotees travel around 16 km from Kumuli, often using jeeps.

Access through the Kerala route is subject to regulations by the forest department, including limits on transport, carrying food, and taking materials for temple use, as the temple falls inside a dense tiger reserve. Devotees stated that these restrictions affect participation.

A long-standing demand is to build a road through the Tamil Nadu forest area via Paliyankudi, as Kerala and Tamil Nadu are locked in a battle over who owns the temple. Although studies have been carried out, construction has not begun.

Time restrictions during the festival also affect access. Entry is allowed from 6 am, and jeep movement stops by 1.15 pm. Devotees from distant places stated that this limits their ability to visit the temple.

The structure itself shows signs of damage. Parts of the stone walls and sections of the temple have deteriorated. Devotees from both states have called for restoration while maintaining its original form. But Kannagi has always been a fearful figure in Tamil Nadu’s politics, from the Pandiya king’s rule to the present-day State politics. Her fiery spirit for justice still resonates in the State’s politics, as her statue was suddenly removed and later restored in Chennai. There have been talks in political circles of Kannagi staring into the eyes of those in power.

In this backdrop, it’s no surprise that long-pending demands for access to the temple beyond a single day, permission for monthly worship and route via Tamil Nadu fall on deaf ears.