Tamil chef spicing up culinary trends, traditions across world

Chef Devagi’s infectious passion has the remarkable ability to elevate ordinary meals into extraordinary dining experiences
Representative Image
Representative Image
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CHENNAI: Chef Devagi Sanmugam, renowned as the ‘Spice Queen,’ is a multifaceted culinary expert with a diverse range of accolades and roles, including cookbook author, food columnist, cooking instructor, entrepreneur, and enthusiastic epicurean. She stands out as one of Singapore’s most dynamic and talented figures in the world of food. Whether she’s crafting inventive recipes for her latest project or imparting her culinary wisdom to aspiring chefs in her cooking classes, Chef Devagi’s infectious passion has the remarkable ability to elevate ordinary meals into extraordinary dining experiences.

Presently in Chennai, Chef Devagi is set to guide participants through mastering the art of Asian cooking by delving into classic recipes and techniques. Additionally, she plans to shed light on the diverse varieties of rice and their significance in our diets. “We have a plethora of rice varieties, and it’s crucial for people to be able to identify them. Rice and rice-based dishes are staples in our diets, and it’s important to recognise varieties that do not cause blood sugar spikes. Heirloom rice varieties are an excellent choice. As chefs, we bear the responsibility of creating awareness about these diverse rice varieties,” Devagi initiates the conversation.

Chef Devagi Sanmugam’s culinary journey has been significantly influenced by her heritage. Her father hails from Tamil Nadu, while her mother is a Tamil brought up in Singapore. “During my upbringing, Indian food had a profound influence on me. We always prepared dishes closely tied to our culture at home.”

A celebrated author and culinary authority, Devagi has observed that in Chennai, people may not be as receptive to exploring a wide range of culinary options, particularly among vegetarians. “Especially among Tamil vegetarians, there’s a preference for local cuisine. They may not be very open to experimenting with different vegetarian dishes. However, it’s possible that the younger generation has a more adventurous palate and is willing to explore new cuisines,” the chef notes.

Devagi mentions that Indian hotels in Singapore typically prepare dishes in a manner consistent with Indian traditions, albeit with subtle variations. “For example, the biryani recipe remains true to its origins, but we incorporate lemongrass and pandan leaves into our biryanis. I’ve noticed this trend gaining popularity in India as well.”

Having spent four decades in the culinary industry, Chef Devagi has witnessed significant changes over the years. “One notable transformation has been the emergence of young chefs. When I first entered the industry 40 years ago, it was a surprise to see a woman pursuing a career in food. However, with the advent of cable TV and reality cooking shows, the culinary profession has gained a different image. Nowadays, people aspire to become chefs as a full-fledged profession, with some transitioning from entirely different careers,” concludes the chef.

The chef will be hosting a session at the Spirit of The Earth, Mylapore, on September 20. For details about the class, contact 9500082142.

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