Anakaputhur cluster Knitting green hopes

CHENNAI: Anakaputhur, once a popular neighbourhood with a thriving weaving community, now hardly has one weaver in a family. Three decades ago, the community comprised more than 4,000 weavers, which has now come down to 100.

Sekar from the Anakaputhur Weavers Association is trying his best to revive the lost charm of the suburb by implementing innovative and sustainable ideas.

Sekar welcomed us to a 352 sq ft building, where Valli, Mohanakrishnan and Latha were going about their routine of making sarees. The sound of the looms speaks about the rich history of the city’s exclusive handloom neighbourhood.

“My journey with weaving started when I was in class 8. After that, I casually came across snippets from Ramayana, which introduced me to weaving without a cotton thread. Inspired by the tale, I started experimenting with jute and banana fibre,” starts Sekar, who began this innovative process 15 years ago.

Known for its iconic Madras Checks, this cluster majorly exported its products to African countries. They faced a huge setback because of the import ban in the country.

Even after facing the COVID-19 challenge and natural catastrophe, among others, this group is undeterred and strongly embraces their legacy of traditional craftsmanship. 59-year-old Valli feels, “We are evolving.

We are now coming up with natural fibres woven sarees, which are unique. Many left weaving owing to less pay. I forayed into this when I was 13 and till now I feel a sense of satisfaction after hearing encouraging words from customers, which according to me is big.” Valli is determined that she will continue weaving till her last breath.

Anakaputhur weaving cluster is still following the traditional method without employing any modern technology. “The entangled fibres are hitched using hands to retain the natural shine,” says Latha. As she is in the middle of the process, she let us take a closer look at it.

“Note that small and unused fibres are used to make chains, bangles and so, leading to zero waste,” adds Latha with 18 years of experience. Instead of following the traditional method of advertising, this cluster depends upon social media and loyal customers for orders.

This cluster functions with 80 per cent women and is on a mission to regain its lost charm. They are probably the first in India to use aloe vera as a fibre for fabric. “Sometimes we face a shortage of banana fibre.

So, we started blending banana and pineapple fibres. Each state has its own significant fibre. For example, Kerala has coconut, Andhra Pradesh has gongura and silk is for Karnataka. What does Tamil Nadu have?” questions Sekar.

Sekar’s name is engraved in the Limca Book Of Records for producing sarees using 25 natural fibres. Recently, a saree made up of vettiver and cotton was presented to the Thailand princess, Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.

They have also gifted a natural fibre shawl packed with herbal values to Prime Minister Narendra Modi in 2015. The cluster had a chance to meet Governor RN Ravi and handed over a shawl, stitched with banana fibre and also explained the benefits of the same.

“This is our livelihood. The methods which we use now can result in profit not only for weavers but also for farmers.

If banana or pineapple fibre is used more than cotton, it will benefit farmers and water can also be saved, leading to sustainability,” remarks the 60-year-old weaver. The team also exports garments to the United States, Singapore, and Malaysia to name a few.

Talking about the process involved in using natural fibres, Sekar says that each fibre needs a different treatment. “For example, lotus fibre should be processed for around 15 days.

The processed fibre will be treated with natural dyes made using fruits and vegetables extraction. The same applies to hemp and vettiver,” he explains.

The cluster is planning to introduce banana fibre T-shirts. Sekar’s son, Mohan is studying textile engineering to implement new technology in weaving and pave the way for the development of the community. However, M Mohanakrishnan, who has four decades of experience in the field, is doubtful of the future of the community.

“People are losing interest and it is a huge doubt if weaving has a future in this neighbourhood. Natural fibres are getting good appreciation, but we need manpower to take it further. We request the government to provide a common platform uniting all the weaving clusters,” states the 53-year-old.

The cluster requests the government to look into their long-awaiting demand. “We request the authorities to provide at least a two-acre space to experiment more with natural fibres and continue the legacy of traditional craftsmanship in the suburb.

This will increase women’s employment and I don’t want to leave the legacy behind. If there is a significant increase in the pay like other industries, youngsters will choose this field. This will lead to a bright future for the weaving community,” hopes Sekar.