Woven threads of tradition: Tuhil’s 'Songs of the Loom' celebrates Margazhi heritage and artistry

CHENNAI: We live in a world where traditions often struggle to abide amid coexistence. But the House of Tuhil stands out tall and glorious battling this test of time. Co-founded by S Jayakumar and his partner Varsha Kumar in 2019, Tuhil derives its name from a Tamil word from the Sangam era, which translates to ‘fabric.’ This linguistic choice epitomises the brand’s mission- to weave together heritage, authenticity, and artistry in every thread.

“The idea for Tuhil took root in 2019, when Jayakumar and I got married. During our trousseau shopping, we sought authentic handloom sarees—traditional designs and colours reminiscent of those in my maternal grandmother’s and great-grandmother’s wardrobes. However, finding anything close to that aesthetic proved nearly impossible. This gap made us reflect on the challenges surrounding authenticity in both craft and material,” elucidates Varsha.

Jayakumar’s work documenting Rukmini Devi’s sarees at Kalakshetra, fueled their interest in the sustainability of these crafts and the looming risk of their extinction. Vardha, who is a passionate connoisseur of India’s textile heritage herself, says, “This sparked a journey of design intervention in 2019, where we engaged with numerous master weavers to ensure that the grammar of design, traditional color palettes, high-quality materials, and artisan skills were preserved and celebrated.”

Marking their presence in the festive occasion of Margazhi, Tuhil brings Songs of the Loom, an exhibition aiming to bring handlooms to the forefront of cultural appreciation. Inspired by the works of Vijaya Ramaswamy, this initiative is both a tribute to her book The Song of the Loom Weaver Folk Traditions in South India, and the essence of the Margazhi season.

“Our goal was to create a space where people could experience handlooms firsthand—understanding everything from the yarn and weaving process to the significance of motifs. As our primary focus is educating and spreading awareness about authentic traditional handlooms. Such experiences help people view textiles in a new and meaningful light,”

Songs of the Loom focuses on the vibrant hues of Margazhi, complemented by the symbolism of motifs like the parrot and lotus, which hold special significance during this season. Rich shades such as gold, yellow, blue, and deep red take center stage, reflecting the essence and spirit of the month. They remind us that handlooms are more than just fabric—they are the songs of our history, waiting to be sung anew.

Join along on their journey with Songs of the Loom, starting from today, at 11.30 am to 8 pm, till December 30, between 10 am to 8 pm, at My Bungalow, 40, Teynampet.