Where old Madras whispers through modern rush

CHENNAI: Once a gracious colonial suburb, Vepery’s wide, shaded avenues and sprawling bungalows held a stillness, shaped by missionary institutions and landmarks like St Matthias’ Church. It was home to early centres of education, Tamil scholarship, and reform, where life unfolded at a reflective pace. To shed more light on the neighbourhood, Madras Inherited is organising a heritage walk titled Voices and Vignettes of Vepery.

“Vepery and neighbouring Periamet were under the possession of the Nawabs of Carnatic. The English applied for the grant of Vepery in 1695, but it was only in 1742 that they received it from the young Nawab Muhammad Sayyad. The Vepery Mission is recorded to be the oldest mission in India connected with the Church of England,” says Latha Nathan, who will lead the walk.

Step into Vepery today, and the rhythm has shifted. The roads are tighter, the traffic is impatient, and the space is filled with apartments, clinics, and commercial establishments that reflect a city constantly in motion.

Speaking about the philanthropists associated with the neighbourhood, the walk leader elaborates, “Bavanandam Pillai possessed a Sherlock Holmes-like persona. He stood first in the competitive exams held by the Commissioner of Police to recruit educated young men, with a view to improving the efficiency and moral tone of the city police, and joined the service in 1889. His methods were both humane and efficient. Next, P.T. Lee Chengalvaraya Naicker bequeathed his fortune to start a technical institute in Vepery. It is recorded to have been the city’s first skills-based educational institution, or polytechnic, as it is now called.”

The name Vepery is said to have been derived from the neem tree. “In fact, I came across descriptions of Vepery as a neighbourhood with guava orchards and coconut trees in the 18th century,” adds the 58-year-old.

Not to be missed, Vepery is home to a diverse range of architectural character. “Many historic schools function in this locality. One of them is CSI St Paul’s School, founded in 1716, which makes it the oldest Western school in the city outside Fort St George. According to records, it was perhaps the first missionary school to teach Tamil. At every nook and corner of Vepery, one can find old residences, schools, colleges, and even a cemetery where many historical figures from the British era are laid to rest.”

Vepery stands out for its striking balance of both old and new Madras charm. It is a neighbourhood that has adapted without completely letting go, where history does not fade but coexists. However, Latha points out that the area has lost much of its greenery. “Greater awareness about such a historically significant part of our city would go a long way in conservation, preservation, and appreciation of what this neighbourhood has to offer,” she says.

The heritage walk will take place on April 11, from 6.30 am to 8.30 am. For more details, visit Madras Inherited’s Instagram page.