Royal Maratha cuisine food festival in Chennai showcases Thanjavur's historic flavours

CHENNAI: For most diners, Maharashtrian cuisine is known for its thali, misal pav or puran poli. But beyond these familiar dishes lies the lesser-known Royal Maratha cuisine, a culinary tradition that rarely finds its way onto restaurant menus. “Royal Maratha cuisine is not as well known because it is restricted to certain households, with recipes not being shared,” says chef Vinita Ghatge, who is in Chennai to present Legacy of the Marathas at Hyatt Regency.

“When I realised people thought this cuisine was only the typical Maharashtrian thali, I was heartbroken. In Maharashtrian cuisine, there is one common masala, whereas in Royal Maratha cuisine, every dish has a very different and distinct flavour. Nobody should generalise it. The cuisine itself is a product of history. As the Maratha Empire expanded southwards under the Bhonsle rulers, its kitchens travelled too, absorbing local ingredients while retaining their own identity. The Maratha kingdom of Thanjavur, established in the 17th century, became one such centre. Over nearly two centuries of Maratha rule in Thanjavur, the royal kitchens absorbed local Tamil ingredients such as curry leaves while retaining Maharashtrian culinary traditions, creating a distinct cuisine that reflected both regions,” Vinita begins to explain the history while presenting the dishes.

The dinner began with Alla Avla Sarbat, a refreshing blend of gooseberry, ginger and honey. Among the starters, the Vatanyachi Bakharvadi stood out with its crisp exterior and nutty, mildly sweet filling of fresh green peas. The mains included Harbara Dal and Cashew Curry, where skinned whole chana and fresh cashews are cooked in a coconut milk base. The Shahi Pulao was fragrant with coconut and whole spices rather than heavy with masalas. The meal concluded with Ravyacha Sheera, a comforting sojji pudding prepared with pure ghee, milk and sugar, flavoured with saffron and cardamom, and garnished with almonds.

“Wherever the Marathas ruled, regional influences became part of the cuisine. Thanjavur brought the flavours of curry leaves and local condiments. The Konkan region contributed fresh coconut, while the north introduced the richness of dry fruits,” explains the chef.

Those influences are evident throughout the menu, where coconut appears as a thread running through many of the dishes. The flavours are subtle, allowing each preparation to retain its own character rather than relying on a single dominant spice blend. That individuality, she says, is what distinguishes Royal Maratha cuisine. “History and tradition are lost when recipes are changed,” she says, explaining why she has resisted modern reinterpretations. “I cannot specify one special ingredient because every dish and every recipe has its own distinctiveness. That is probably what gives this cuisine its uniqueness.”

When asked about choosing Chennai, she tells us, “Bringing it to Chennai carries a special significance.

The historical ties between the Marathas and Thanjavur make the city an apt place to revisit this shared culinary heritage. I would like people here to discover the similarities between both cuisines, yet appreciate the diversity in a few techniques. For example, we use kokum, where Tamil cuisine often uses tamarind. I hope the dishes leave their taste buds tingling and longing for more,” concludes Vinita.

Legacy of the Marathas food festival is on at Spice Haat, Hyatt Regency Chennai, till July 12, between 7 pm and 11 pm.