One table, many homes: Women celebrate India's diverse food culture in Chennai

CHENNAI: A loaf of Sri Lankan roast paan sits beside a bowl of patile wale kulche chole from Old Delhi. Next to them are jackfruit kebabs, methi aloo, millet pal payasam, purple yam kanji and red rice puttu, and the list goes on.

There is no menu, no chef introducing the spread and no one waiting to be judged. Instead, every woman takes a turn introducing the dish she has brought, explaining where it comes from and why it matters. Yet everything on the table has one thing in common: it reminds someone of home.

That is exactly what food revivalist Yogita Uchil envisioned when she started The Shared Table. This recurring gathering brings together women from different professions, backgrounds and cultures to celebrate food. The gathering was born from a simple realisation. "I work with a lot of women who showcase their food, and most of them are food entrepreneurs. But I realised I can't allow everybody to do a pop-up. So here, we tell people to bring the food they grew up eating, the food they feel nostalgic about and the food that belongs to their region. Indian cuisine is so diverse. We are teaching Indians about Indian food,” Yogita says.

The gathering has since evolved into an extension of her food revival efforts. Instead of preserving recipes in cookbooks alone, the women keep traditions alive by cooking them, sharing them and talking about the memories attached to them.

"It's more about networking, friendship and food. People come here because they relax and have fun, but at the same time, there's so much to take away. Everybody gets an opportunity to talk about their food,” she adds.

For Divya Anund, founder of The OG Parantha, the potluck offered an opportunity to showcase a lesser-known side of Punjabi cuisine. She brought Patile Wale Kulche Chole, a beloved street-style dish from Old Delhi's Chawri Bazaar. "Through my food, I'm trying to introduce the lesser-known side of Punjabi cuisine — home-style and street-style recipes that are full of flavour without being heavy or overly rich. There is so much more to our cuisine that remains unexplored," Divya says.

This particular dish is deeply personal for her. "This has been my comfort food since childhood. It proves that great food doesn't have to be rich or indulgent; it just has to be made with heart. The Shared Table is a space to experiment, learn, connect and support one another without competition. It truly feels like our day," adds Divya.

For Amaravati, who specialises in Sri Lankan cuisine, participating in the potluck meant recreating the flavours she grew up with. She served Sri Lankan Roast Paan, Red Rice Puttu and Purple Yam Kanji, dishes that immediately transported her back home. "These are the foods I enjoy back home in Sri Lanka. The vibe and positivity in the group keep drawing me back. I feel so connected with this fun-loving community,” Amaravati tells DT Next.

Author and millet expert Indra Narayan chose to prepare Millet Pal Payasam, reimagining her mother's signature recipe by replacing rice with millet, a grain she has worked with since 2012. "This is my mom's signature dish. She made it with rice, but I have adapted it using millet. Yogita's potluck is a table filled with amazing food, inspiring women, positive vibes, laughter and wonderful conversations. Every dish carries a story, passion and a touch of love," says Indra.

Seasonality also found a place on the table through Jackfruit Kebabs, prepared by Ammu Rebecca using one of Kerala's most cherished seasonal fruits. "Jackfruit is something we eagerly wait for every year. I wanted to show how versatile it can be by transforming it into a kebab. We preserve it in different forms so it can be enjoyed long after the season ends. Sharing it with friends and family is our way of sharing a little piece of home,” says Ammu.

A festive sweet from Chettinad, a comforting Sindhi Sai Bhaji, a Sri Lankan family recipe or a forgotten seasonal delicacy comes together to create a space where women exchange ideas as freely as recipes. They recommend each other's work, celebrate one another's achievements and build friendships.