Chennai has balanced culinary heritage with global flavours: Chef Suresh Pillai

CHENNAI: Born in Kollam and now a British citizen, this chef-restaurateur is celebrated for highlighting the rich flavours of God’s own country. He has experience in renowned restaurants worldwide and appeared on MasterChef: The Professionals. He impressed with his traditional Kerala fish curry and a unique twist on pachadi with mashed potato. Suresh Pillai, an ambassador of Kerala cuisine, recently was in the city to celebrate the rich flavours of his native cuisine. He crafted an exclusive menu for Spice Haat at Hyatt Regency Chennai. For chef Pillai, love and simplicity are the essential ingredients in his dishes, reflecting his commitment to authenticity and creativity.

Talking about the transformation of south Indian cuisine over the years, chef Pillai says, “The cuisine has changed a lot and it is exciting to see how regional cuisines have evolved. For instance, Kerala cuisine is getting the recognition it deserves. We’re seeing more coconut, curry leaves, and seafood dishes gaining popularity across India and even globally. Tamil cuisine, with its robust flavours and vegetarian options, is also making waves.”

Any dish that has taken off internationally? “Dosa! It has become a global ambassador for south Indian delicacies,” he adds. For the last couple of years, the Indian culinary scene has been transformative and the chef agrees to that. “Local and seasonal ingredients are getting more importance. There’s also been a lot of attention to regional cuisines. Another significant change is the rise of cloud kitchens and food delivery apps. They’ve changed the way people experience restaurant food. And let’s not forget the growing interest in healthy and organic options,” shares the chef.

Many food connoisseurs and enthusiasts observed a surge in the preference for vegetarian and vegan options. “This development is both a challenge and an opportunity for the chefs. It pushes us to think outside the box and create exciting dishes without relying on meat or dairy. I find the process invigorating. We’re rediscovering traditional ingredients like millet and finding new ways to present them. The key is to keep the flavours bold and satisfying, even without animal products,” he states.

Returning to traditional recipes is a growing trend that is helping us rediscover forgotten dishes from the past. “It’s exciting to see Gen Z reconnecting with their roots. For innovation, we might experiment with new presentations, like deconstructed idlis or dosas, or play with fermentation techniques, incorporating Korean and Japanese flavours. We could also introduce local and forgotten ingredients into classic recipes. The goal is to honour the dish while giving it a modern twist.”

Chef Suresh Pillai shares with DT Next that south Indian cuisine is set for more fusion innovations. “We’ll likely see traditional dishes with modern twists and south Indian flavours blended into international cuisines. Upscale, fine-dining takes on classic dishes are also on the horizon.”

This isn’t Pillai’s first visit to Chennai, but he notes a shift in the food scene. “The culinary landscape is dynamic, with experimental diners and a renewed interest in traditional Tamil cuisine, presented in modern ways. The café culture is thriving too. I appreciate how Chennai is blending its rich heritage with global influences,” he reflects.

Running a restaurant demands patience, hard work, and consistency. Chennai is seeing a rise in new restaurants and cafes, with an equal number of closures. Many young entrepreneurs are entering the field. “To aspiring restaurateurs in Chennai, passion is essential, but planning is equally important. Know your market, have a clear concept, and ensure consistency in food quality. Build a strong team; your staff can make or break your restaurant. Be ready for long hours and setbacks, but don’t be discouraged. Embrace learning and feedback, and focus on serving great food with excellent hospitality,” he advises.