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A bitter gourd delicacy sans the bitterness
As the bus turned at one of the many hairpin bends, the beautiful view of the hills and greenery was a sight to behold. We were on our way to Guruvayur. We were hoping to stop at Palakkad to taste some of its traditional recipes which had been handed down from one generation to another.
Chennai
Reaching Palakkad, we chose Amuma Pushkala’s place to eat. It was a small homely eatery where one gets to learn the history of Palakkad through the food served. Settling ourselves on the wooden benches, and quenching our thirst with jeera vellam (cumin water), we listened to Amuma’s heart-warming tales before tasting the deletable food.Â
Not much is known about Palakkad’s ancient history. One of the earliest records about Palakkad has a chronicle of a war victory in A.D 988 when the king of Palakkad, Nedumpurayur Nadudayavar, stopped an invasion by the forces of the King of Kongunadu at Chittur.Â
Even today, a festival is celebrated in memory of this victory at Chittur. The Nedumpurayur royal family was later known as Tarur Swaroopam and finally as Palakkad Raja Swaroopam. Owing to the moderate climate throughout the year and favourable soil conditions, it is a major centre for cultivation of organic vegetables. Out of all the vegetables, bitter gourd has always been very popular. It was from here that it was exported to Europe, and later America too. India exported to the Far East and China, who started growing their own variety.Â
It is now an important part of their diet. They make use of it in some of their most delectable stir-fries, herbal teas as well as a flavouring agent in some of their traditional beers This vegetable is very good for health and recommended by every dietician, doctor and health consultant.Â
It is an excellent source of vitamins B1, B2, and B3, C, magnesium, folic acid, zinc, phosphorus, and has high dietary fibre. It is also rich in iron. It is also a great vegetable to keep diabetes in check. Bitter gourd fights viruses and bacteria and strengthens your immunity. It prevents allergies and indigestion. While the health benefits of bitter gourd are many, the bitterness is what puts off most people.Â
Yet, it is one of the most delicious dishes when prepared the Palakkad Iyer way, especially a preparation called ‘pavakai pitla’. It is believed that it was first created by a Brahmin lady who was originally from Thanjavur but later married a Namboodri gentleman from Palakkad. The dish became so popular that it is served as a delicacy in some places.Â
Not all restaurants or hotels serve bitter gourd, as it is not liked by children and many adults. But those who have tasted pavakai pitla, will swear by its tantalising taste. The fresh flavours of ground spices, tangy tamarind and sweet jaggery compensate for the bitterness of the gourd.Â
I am a big fan of this dish and consider it a must try for everyone at least once in their lifetime. So today, I share with you the recipe of the absolutely delectable pavakai pitlai.Â
Pavakkai Pitlai
IngredientsÂ
Bitter gourd: 2 medium-sizedÂ
Tamarind: Lemon-sized ballÂ
Toor dal: 5 tbspÂ
Jaggery: 1 tbspÂ
Turmeric powder: ½ tspÂ
Curry leaves and green coriander for seasoning
To be roasted and groundÂ
Asafoetida: Small pieceÂ
Channa dal: 1 tspÂ
Black pepper: ¼ tspÂ
Dried red chilli: 4-5Â
Grated coconut: ½ cupÂ
Dried coriander: 1 tbspÂ
Fenugreek seeds: 1/2 tspÂ
Cumin: 1/2 tspÂ
Curry leaves: 4 or 5 to be roasted
For seasoningÂ
Coconut oil: 1 tspÂ
Mustard seeds: 1 tspÂ
Cumin: 1/2 tspÂ
Curry leaves: a few
For the spice pasteÂ
Heat a tbsp of gingelly oil, add asafoetida, and allow it to fryÂ
Then add channa dal fry for a minuteÂ
Then add the coriander seedsÂ
Add pepper, cumin, methi seeds, curry leaves and finally add the chilli
Fry this till it turns a nice golden colourÂ
Take this out in a plate Fry the grated coconut for a few minutes or till it is brownish
Grind the spices with coconut to a smooth paste by adding little water
Serves: 2-3 personsÂ
Prep time: 10 minsÂ
Cookingtime: 15 minsÂ
Caloriesperserving: 120
MethodÂ
Soak tamarind in hot water for about 10 mins Squeeze and extract tamarind juice. Keep asideÂ
Pressure cook toor dal Once cooked, mash it well and keep aside Cut bitter gourd into small pieces
In a pan, add a tsp of oil and fry the bitter gourd pieces with a little salt for about 5 to 7 mins (This is done to reduce the bitterness of the gourd) Keep a pan over the fire and pour the tamarind extractÂ
Add the fried bitter gourd pieces, turmeric powder, salt and jaggeryÂ
Allow this to boil till the raw smell of tamarind and masala goes and the vegetable is cookedÂ
Once the vegetable is cooked, add the mashed dal and stir well Bring to boil. Then add the spice paste and allow to boil for about 2 minsÂ
Add water by checking for consistency. Remove from heatÂ
Heat a tbsp of coconut oil. Add mustard seeds, asafoetida powder and curry leavesÂ
Once the seeds start spluttering pour, it on top of the pitlai and garnish with curry leaves and corianderÂ
Tip: Make sure to use a thick bottom vessel or frying pan for this dish. Do not roast masalas on high flame. Do it on low flame and wait patiently till it changes colour. Do not over fry. Otherwise, the coriander seeds and methi (fenugreek) will taste bitter
The writer is a chef and author of Festive Offerings to the Gods
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