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    Royal recipe from Pudukkottai

    As youngsters, celebrating Dussera or Navratri in our ancestral town Pudukkottai was a treat. The food served for the festival were heritage recipes, handed down for generations. One such dish was Pushpanjali, created in the palace kitchens of Raja Vijay Raghunatha Raya Thondaiman (1730 - 1769 AD) when he ruled in the south.

    Royal recipe from Pudukkottai
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    Urundai kuzhambu

    Chennai

    Pushpanjali is traditionally a palm full of fragrant flowers or a dish cooked with gratitude and love, offering at the feet of a revered deity. This age-old tradition was the custom amongst all kingdoms who ruled in south India. Food, was first offered to the palace deity and then to the revered persons, before others ate. 

    Pushpanjali the dish too was prepared with similarly, with love, and served to a diner treated with the same respect as a deity. Puspanjali is a traditional dish made with raw banana, mashed into round bondas or Urandaikoftas and cooked in a simmering spicy curry, supposedly a favourite of Raja Thondaiman. During his period the whole of India come under the umbrella of the Mughals.   Pudukkottai was left undisturbed by the Nawab, except for the influence on food. Pushpanjali was influenced by the Muslim invaders, from whom certain spices like cinnamon, star anise and cloves, saw the entry into local food.

    Pushpanjali 

    Ingredients 

    Serves: 5-6

    For the Urandai-Koftas 

    Raw banana: 500 gms (boiled, peeled and mashed) 

    Green coriander: 2 1/2 cups 

    Green chillies: 6 (chopped) 

    Mint: 1 sprig (finely chopped) 

    Curry leaves: 1 sprig 

    Turmeric powder: 1 tsp 

    Salt: to taste

    Urandai Masala 

    Gram flour/ lentil flour (kadlamavu): 25 gms 

    Roasted cumin powder: 1/2 tsp 

    Oil: 2 cups (for frying)

    Roast and Powder

    Cinnamon: 1

    Cloves: 2 Star 

    anise: 1 

    Fennel: 1 tsp 

    Cumin: 1 tsp 

    Black pepper: 1 tsp 

    Big cardamom: 2 

    Small cardamom: 2 

    Marathi mogu: 2 

    Bay leaves: 2 

    Coriander seeds: 1/4 cup 

    Red chillies: 2

    For the filling 

    Banana flower: 1 medium sized (boiled, cut fine, water all squeezed out) Fresh coconut: 1/2 cup (grated) 

    Ground nuts: 1/4 cup 

    Cashew nuts: 1/4 cup  

    Unsalted butter: 1 tbsp 

    Roasted powdered cumin: 1 tsp 

    Roasted coriander powder: 1 tsp 

    Coconut milk: 1 cup 

    Hung yogurt: 1 cup (whisked) 

    Green peas: 21/2 cups (shelled, boiled and mashed) 

    Jaggery: 1/4 cup 

    Lemon juice: 1 tbsp 

    Vegetable oil: 2 tbsp 

    Salt: to taste

    Method 

    For the Urandai/koftas, mix all the ingredients together and divide into balls of equal portions. Flatten each ball and place some of the banana filling in it.  

    Heat the oil in a deep kadai. When oil is hot, reduce flame and fry the urandai/ koftas till golden brown. 

    Drain the excess oil on paper towels. Keep aside. For the gravy, pan roast the coconut, groundnuts, mint, green coriander, red chillies and cashew nuts and grind to smooth paste.  

    In a fresh pan melt the butter and add cumin seeds, curry leaves and salt. Dissolve the coriander powder in 2 spoons of water and add to the mix. Stir fry for 2 minutes. 

    Add yogurt. Stir and blend. Now add the mashed green peas, coconut and nuts paste, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes. Add 1 cup of water or coconut milk and bring to a boil. 

    Add the grated jaggery and stir well for 4 minutes. Gently add the urandai/koftas one by one. Simmer on slow fire for 4 min. Switch off and add the lemon juice. Garnish with coriander leaves or curry leaves and serve.

    — The writer is a chef and author of Festive Offerings to the Gods

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