South Indian food re-imagined

As I walk into the newly-opened Avartana (pronounced Avartan), I experience a cocktail of emotions. On one hand, there is a sense of trepidation, because the cuisine is South Indian food that has been given modernist iterations and progressive renditions — most experiments in this regard have failed to impress in terms of retaining the authenticity of the dish in an adventurous pursuit of giving it a new spin. Also, South Indian food has never really been about the presentation. It’s all about the flavours and emotions. So, when you mess with our curd rice and rasam , you’re playing with emotions. Having said that, there is also a sense of reassurance because the restaurant has been created under the watchful eyes of Executive Chef Ajit Bangera, and is a culmination of a two-year-long research, trial and error. Chef Bangera, an ITC veteran with over 38 years of experience leads me into the new space, as we pass by an oblong grinding stone with fresh spices on top. He tells me this is to ensure the diners that although he’s offering modern south Indian food that’s rooted in tradition. The décor seems futuristic, but as I take a closer look I realise they are familiar patterns in sync with the theme of the restaurant. The auspicious banana leaf, especially symbolic of South Indian cuisine, is a recurrent design. There is banana leaf motif on the carpet, while banana flower patterns on the dazzling partitions create a delightful fusion of the traditional and contemporary. The décor is further enhanced with the presence of the Kerala boat prow which adorns the main wall of the dining area. There is also a ‘Filter Coffee Station’ which is the centre of attraction. 

As we settle into our seats, Bangera gives me a low-down on the 11-course menu I’m about to be  treated to. There is no à la carte here, but multiple set menu options starting at Rs 2,000 up to Rs 4,500 plus tax. As Bangera and I are in conversation, a familiar face walks up to our table. Chef Harish Rao, who was the star of Park Sheraton’s (now Crowne Plaza Adyar Park) award-winning South Indian restaurant, Dakshin, appears  holding a French press filled with fresh herbs, sliced tomatoes and steaming rasam. He presses it down and releases a clear liquid into a martini glass. The fragrant rasam is true to its tangy flavour in a whole new avatar. We follow this with crisp, dehydrated bitter gourd cruisers topped with jaggery paste, cooked shallots and stir-fried potatoes. The bitterness is evident yet brilliantly subtle. Even those who don’t like bitter gourd might  fall in love with this one. There are also coriander shrimp dumplings with milled dry fish. A take on the kozhukattai, this one’s softer, more tender and a sheer delight. Next in line is stir fried lobster with charred onions, byadagi chilli and garlic. The heat from the chilli and the sweetness of the lobster blend seamlessly. We also sip on a refreshing sorbet of orange and ginger served in a pickle jar. The next treat is asparagus, French beans and coconut stew with idiyappam. The asparagus, coconut stew is smoked at the table, which adds drama. But even without the additional smoky aura, the stew is earthy and creamy. There is also a pan-fried cod floating in a tender coriander broth. The cod is fresh and wellcooked. However, the climax of the meal is yet to come. The chef tells me he’s going to heat things up now and a waiter walks in with a delightful preparation of pepper chicken, malabar parotta and spice me ringue. While it’s not overpoweringly spicy, it’s just the perfect departure from the subtle treats we’ve been bingeing on. 

Now comes the real test. I’m not sure it is what I think it is. I’m right, it’s curd rice. But wait, it’s made with sago. Now that’s a daredevil act. But as I binge into it with apprehension, the creamy yoghurt-cloaked sago has a pleasing texture, while the tangy concentrated vathaku zhambu, served in a test tube, balances it perfectly. It had all the flavours intact. 

Just when I think it’s over, a waiter walks in with a bowl emanating smoke. Betel leaves, with a dollop of white substance sitting in the centre, emerge almost magically from the clouds of smoke. Noting the puzzled look on my face, Chef Bangera leads the way and demonstrates how it’s to be taken. I lift the betel leaf and pop the white substance into my mouth only to discover a burst of fresh and authentic flavours of paan and gulkhand (rose mix) in a refreshing cold avatar that have been frozen with liquid nitrogen. 

Retrospectively, every dish here is a work of art, alluring in presentation. There are no extraneous elements on the plate. The flavours are delightfully familiar, despite the contemporary interpretation. The ITC group hits the bull’s eye with this one. 

If you’re looking for pleasantly unfamiliar-looking food that’s testimony to sheer culinary excellence, yet recognisably South Indian in the mouth, you know where to head. And to those who are still clinging on to the idea that south Indian food isn’t worth splurging upon, think again! This experience is more than worth every penny.