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    Memsahib’s guide to Anglo Indian food

    The founding day of Madras is considered to be August 22. On the occasion of Madras Day, we take a look at two 16th century Anglo-Indian recipes, which are synonymous with city’s colonial heritage

    Memsahib’s guide to Anglo Indian food
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    (L) Railway Lamb Curry and (R) Country Captain Chicken Curry

    Chennai

    RAILWAY LAMB CURRY

    Railway mutton curry or first class railway mutton (lamb) curry is a spicy Indian curry dish supposedly served in all ‘first class compartments’ on Indian trains. It is a variation of the mutton dish that originated during the British Raj colonial-era. The story behind this curry is that an English army officer was hungry while travelling in a train and went to the pantry car where a spicy mutton curry was being prepared. However, it was too spicy to his liking. The obliging cook reduced the spice with the infusion of coconut milk and served it to him. He absolutely loved it. From that day on, this recipe became popular with frequent travellers!

    Ingredients:

    Lamb cubes along with bone: 800 gms 

    Vegetable oil: 100 ml

    Cinnamon: 2 sticks 

    Bay leaves: 4 

    Cardamom, green: 6 

    Onions (large), sliced: 300 gms

    Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tbsp 

    Kashmiri chili powder : 2 tbsp 

    Red chili powder: ½ tsp 

    Coriander powder: 2 tbsp 

    Cumin powder: 1 tbsp 

    Salt: to taste 

    Tomato puree: 300 gms 

    Garam masala powder: ½ tsp 

    Coriander leaves: to garnish

    Method:

    • Heat oil in a large frying pan, add cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaf; sauté for a minute and add sliced onions. 
    • Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning of the onions. Reduce the heat as the onions begin to brown. 
    • Once the onions are a nice golden brown, add ginger-garlic paste, followed by the ground spices and salt. 
    • Stir well and cook for a further 5 minutes over a medium flame. 
    • Now add in the diced lamb, stir well and cook for about 30 minutes over a low-medium heat. (Sprinkle water if it begins to get too dry) 
    • Next add the tomato puree and simmer for further 20 minutes or until the lamb is tender. 
    • Check seasoning and finish with a sprinkling of garam masala powder and chopped coriander leaves, serve hot.

    COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN CURRY

    Country Captain chicken curry is another popular recipe from the colonial times. In the 1800s, British trade ships in India, were called ‘Country Ships’ and their Captains were known as ‘Country Captains’. Country Captain Chicken was a popular dish at their tables and got its name through this association!

    Ingredients:

    Chicken, cut into medium size: 1 kg 

    Onions, sliced: 300 gms 

    Chili powder: 2 tsp 

    Turmeric powder: 1 tsp 

    Oil: 2 tbsp 

    Salt: to taste 

    Garlic paste: 2 tbsp 

    Cinnamon: 2 sticks 

    Cloves: 4 nos 

    Cardamoms: 2 nos 

    Whole pepper corns: 6or 8 nos 

    Dry red chili, broken into bits: 1 nos 

    Chopped garlic: 2 tsp 

    Coriander leaves: to garnish

    Method:

    • Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions and chopped garlic lightly. 
    • Add the chicken and mix in the garlic paste. Sauté for about 5 minutes on medium heat. 
    • Add the chili powder, turmeric powder, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, red chilies, peppercorns and salt. Add half a cup of water and cook till the chicken is tender and the gravy is quite thick. 
    • Garnish with chopped coriander.

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