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Memsahib’s guide to Anglo Indian food
The founding day of Madras is considered to be August 22. On the occasion of Madras Day, we take a look at two 16th century Anglo-Indian recipes, which are synonymous with city’s colonial heritage
Chennai
RAILWAY LAMB CURRY
Railway mutton curry or first class railway mutton (lamb) curry is a spicy Indian curry dish supposedly served in all ‘first class compartments’ on Indian trains. It is a variation of the mutton dish that originated during the British Raj colonial-era. The story behind this curry is that an English army officer was hungry while travelling in a train and went to the pantry car where a spicy mutton curry was being prepared. However, it was too spicy to his liking. The obliging cook reduced the spice with the infusion of coconut milk and served it to him. He absolutely loved it. From that day on, this recipe became popular with frequent travellers!
Ingredients:
Lamb cubes along with bone: 800 gms
Vegetable oil: 100 ml
Cinnamon: 2 sticks
Bay leaves: 4
Cardamom, green: 6
Onions (large), sliced: 300 gms
Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tbsp
Kashmiri chili powder : 2 tbsp
Red chili powder: ½ tsp
Coriander powder: 2 tbsp
Cumin powder: 1 tbsp
Salt: to taste
Tomato puree: 300 gms
Garam masala powder: ½ tsp
Coriander leaves: to garnish
Method:
- Heat oil in a large frying pan, add cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaf; sauté for a minute and add sliced onions.
- Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning of the onions. Reduce the heat as the onions begin to brown.
- Once the onions are a nice golden brown, add ginger-garlic paste, followed by the ground spices and salt.
- Stir well and cook for a further 5 minutes over a medium flame.
- Now add in the diced lamb, stir well and cook for about 30 minutes over a low-medium heat. (Sprinkle water if it begins to get too dry)
- Next add the tomato puree and simmer for further 20 minutes or until the lamb is tender.
- Check seasoning and finish with a sprinkling of garam masala powder and chopped coriander leaves, serve hot.
COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN CURRY
Country Captain chicken curry is another popular recipe from the colonial times. In the 1800s, British trade ships in India, were called ‘Country Ships’ and their Captains were known as ‘Country Captains’. Country Captain Chicken was a popular dish at their tables and got its name through this association!
Ingredients:
Chicken, cut into medium size: 1 kg
Onions, sliced: 300 gms
Chili powder: 2 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1 tsp
Oil: 2 tbsp
Salt: to taste
Garlic paste: 2 tbsp
Cinnamon: 2 sticks
Cloves: 4 nos
Cardamoms: 2 nos
Whole pepper corns: 6or 8 nos
Dry red chili, broken into bits: 1 nos
Chopped garlic: 2 tsp
Coriander leaves: to garnish
Method:
- Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions and chopped garlic lightly.
- Add the chicken and mix in the garlic paste. Sauté for about 5 minutes on medium heat.
- Add the chili powder, turmeric powder, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, red chilies, peppercorns and salt. Add half a cup of water and cook till the chicken is tender and the gravy is quite thick.
- Garnish with chopped coriander.
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