Two renowned Australian baking consultants, Graham Martin and Mick Dumbrell, are in the city for a special collaboration with Old Madras Baking Company (OMBC). In a chat with DT Next, the duo speaks about the changing baking scene in India, the global rise of artisanal breads and more.
This is not their first visit to Chennai. Graham says the duo had previously worked with OMBC to train its staff in sourdough processing methods and the preparation of traditional French baguettes. “The baking culture here is fast-growing and developing, with a mix of traditional stores and very modern, upmarket bakeries run by individual chefs and chains,” he says. Graham is an award-winning pastry chef and baker based on Australia’s Sunshine Coast and Director of Ricks on 6th.
Mick, the director of Mount Barker Country Bakery in Western Australia, believes the baking scene in India has its own unique character. “It is a little different, with many local flavours and delicacies. But it is also moving quickly towards current global trends,” he observes.
Graham agrees that the baking environment in Chennai differs significantly from Australia, especially in terms of ingredients and consumer preferences. “It’s totally different but changing at a rapid pace. With labour costs increasing globally, semi-automated equipment is slowly entering bakeries to maintain consistent quality and keep costs manageable amid consumer pressure on pricing,” he explains. Graham’s work largely focuses on texture, fermentation, and modern baking techniques. Mick points out that sourcing certain ingredients can still be challenging. “Some ingredients, especially those from Europe, are difficult to obtain in India due to cost constraints. In Chennai, the weather makes it difficult to handle certain products. Air conditioning becomes essential when working with butter-based items, for example.”
Freshness is key, along with consistency, innovation and affordability. Being environmentally conscious also matters. If a bakery stands behind these values, it will always succeed – Mick Dumbrell, Australian baking consultant
With decades of experience between them, the two share a common philosophy when it comes to baking. “Best quality ingredients, traditional methods and strong standard operating procedures for consistency and cost control,” they say.
Mick’s journey in baking began early. Having worked in bakeries since the age of 15, he is known for his instinctive approach to baking, passion for product innovation and dedication to traditional craft. Today, he runs a seven-day bakery with a team of 26 while continuing to travel the world in search of inspiration and new ideas.
For Mick, what defines a great bakery today goes beyond just good products. “It starts with the brand and what it stands for. Freshness is key, along with consistency, innovation and affordability. Being environmentally conscious and caring for the community also matters. If a bakery stands behind these values, it will always succeed,” he says.
Graham notes that artisanal breads are rapidly gaining popularity around the world. “You can see traditional older-style bakeries fading as consumers shift towards artisanal bread and pastry products. Sourdough is now a real force in the bread industry,” he says.
Recalling his recent travels, he adds, “A few months ago, I visited 20 bakeries in the US, all artisanal and growing rapidly. Some had even closed their older stores and revamped them into modern bakeries focused solely on sourdough. I was in the UK last week and it’s the same trend there. Products made fresh every day by craftsmen, clean labels, no preservatives, traditional flavours, it’s a global shift. With Instagram and travel, people want to recreate the experiences they’ve seen and tasted abroad.”
After travelling across the world, Mick says that apart from his passion for sourdough, he has a soft spot for a few other favourites. “I love Portuguese tarts and a product from Alsace in France called tarte flambée (Flammekueche). It’s just so delicious. I’ll actually be making it while visiting India this week for our friends at OMBC,” he says with a smile.
Speaking about the purpose of their current visit, Graham says the idea is to share knowledge and experience. “Since our last training session in Chennai, Mick has won the award for best meat pies in Australia and I have won best flatbreads at the World Bread Competition in the US. With these achievements, we wanted to share our recipes and know-how with the team at OMBC so their customers here in Chennai can also enjoy these award-winning products.”