Fruit Gambit: Malaysia seeks to make pungent durian a global favourite

MALAYSIA: Malaysia is pushing to take durian, a fruit whose powerful smell delights its lovers and repels its haters, beyond roadside stalls and family orchards to convince fans that its distinct varieties are worth seeking out.

Devotees savour durians like wine. For Malaysian varieties, the taste of their rich, creamy flesh varies widely across types. Some are prized for sweet custard and fruity notes, others for a hint of bitterness, an alcohol tinge or even a peanut butter flavour.

Efforts to elevate the industry are on display in Kuala Lumpur at a centre devoted exclusively to the fruit and the growing variety of products made from it. Located near the landmark Petronas Twin Towers, the Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre lets visitors explore a replica orchard to discover the fruit’s culture and history. Launched this summer after an investment of nearly $2 million, the two-storey centre spans about 20,450 square feet.

Its founder, Edison Ang, said the centre targets both local customers and tourists, especially those from China, the world’s biggest durian importer. Chinese palates have long been influenced by Thai durian culture. “We hope consumers who already eat durian from other countries will switch to Malaysian varieties,” he said.

In 2025, China imported 1.87 million tonnes of fresh durian worth $7.5 billion, with volume jumping over six times in the past decade, customs data showed. Thailand’s earlier entry helped it secure over half that market by value in 2025. Malaysia, which began exporting fresh durian to China in 2024, was dwarfed. But for the first half of 2026, the value of China’s fresh durian imports from Malaysia quadrupled compared with the same period last year, pointing to rapid growth.

Unlike their rivals, Malaysian growers do not harvest early, instead collecting only naturally ripened fruit caught in nets or ropes as they fall. That is the industry’s biggest advantage and also its biggest weakness, Ang said, as sellers must race against a shelf life of just two to three days. Any delays affect quality, and stock held up during customs checks increases refund rates.

Durian sales are also sensitive to economic conditions, said Leron Yee, founder of DKing, whose business covers both export and domestic markets. When the Chinese economy performs well, his business improves, but if the buying power of Chinese falls, he needs to find alternative markets, he said.

“It is a luxury, not a necessity,” he said.

Businesses are finding opportunities in derivative products. Yee’s company sells durian paste, durian-flavoured chocolate, mochi and mooncakes ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival. DurianBB founder Adrian Choy offers durian ice cream, desserts and dried durian at a cafe, alongside coffee flavoured with the Musang King variety and guided farm tours. In July, his brand launched a sweet, floral durian flower perfume.

Across China, durian speciality shops have mushroomed, with some specialising in Malaysian varieties. In Beijing, the Jiang Sir shop sells platters priced roughly between $44 and $150 depending on pulp weight and the varieties chosen.