Designer Sanjay Garg will soon turn to TN weavers for inspiration

The designer is often credited for his work with handloom weavers for the revival of Indian textiles like Chanderi from Madhya Pradesh, brocades from Varanasi and mashru silk and cotton from West Bengal. Rooted in traditions, with a mission to preserve handcrafted skills in our country, the label’s designs have become one among the favourites of many film stars and celebrities over the years. As Garg brings the 11-year-old brand’s latest collection, ‘Angoori’, to the city, he shares with DT Next the inspiration behind his designs and his plans to work with more handloom weavers in the country.

The label, which began with only a handful of weavers back in 2008, now works with over 500 weavers from across the country — including regions of Chanderi, Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and New Delhi. Asked how weavers, many of whom have lost their livelihoods due to mechanisation of textile making, can remain in the field, Garg says, “After many years of working with weavers all over the country and building a team that is like family, I believe that they naturally feel part of the system when they are getting fair business and wages. As long as they have work and are treated ethically, they are satisfied.” The designer also says he hopes to start working with weavers in Tamil Nadu soon. “(We aren’t working with weavers in Tamil Nadu) as yet, but we hope to start very soon,” he says.

Raw Mango’s latest Festive 2019 collection Angoori includes sarees with classic motifs in silks and organza from Chanderi and Varanasi. Bright vermillion reds, maroons, royal blues, forest greens and gulabi pinks feature in the collection, as a fitting tribute to the festive season. To a question on where he draws inspiration from, Garg asserts, “As a designer, inspirations and influences are always present. It does not come and go — it’s an ongoing process. It can come from anywhere — a person, a region or a moment.”

The brand’s traditional weaves cater to women of all ages — be it 17 or 70 — and are not restrained to a particular age group, the ace designer stresses. “Our designs feature motifs of monkeys, flamingoes, angels and also antique trellis of florals woven for both garments (kurtas, dresses, pants, etc.) and fabrics. Modernity only exists within a context and is extremely subjective. There is no way to particularly contemporise motifs. We have always tried to engage with visual vocabulary of India through measured interventions within traditional practices,” he reiterates.