Varutharacha kaalaan curry: A spice-packed mushroom delicacy

Chennai

Every student looks forward to summer vacations and I was no exception as a child. My school in Kodaikanal had all the beauty and serenity with the hills surrounding it, and our lovely cottage next to a gushing waterfall was our summer haven.

This was the time when my whole family gathered there at the huge, wooden-floored and glass-windowed cottage to witness fun, frolic, good food and adventures of the ‘ghostly’ kind. The cottage was surrounded by plum and peach trees and the steep slope leading to the waterfall was where carrots, potatoes and mushrooms grew. The garden in front was filled with the hues of a variety of flowers and a backyard kitchen garden grew all kinds of herbs. 

The previous owner’s son, Murugan, had supposedly ended his life in the cottage, so it came to being bought by my father, MV Shanker, who was attached to the UN. He had set up the first microwave tower (which was used in the erstwhile days for radio wave transmissions) in Kodaikanal and many other places along with VTV Sharma uncle. Our cook Vasu, was like a great gift from Sharma uncle, as he had promised us the taste of a heritage mushroom dish if we went down close to the waterfall and plucked the mushrooms that grew there. Four of us — my brother Kartik and I along with two cousins, Vishu and Mohan — were all scared of venturing close to the waterfall as we had heard that Murugan’s spirit wandered around all the time. The cook had challenged us, and so with false bravado, we headed out for the mushrooms. 

As we began to approach the waterfall, what seemed like a strange figure was standing, staring at us. We all ran screaming back to the cottage. Once we returned, we saw Vasu holding a vessel full of mushrooms. He tells us that a boy in white dhoti and shirt had given it to him. As the person’s appearance seemed to be like the strange figure we had seen, we assumed it was the spirit of Murugan’s and named the mushroom dish as Murugan varutharacha kaalaan curry (mushroom curry with roasted coconut). 

As early as during the Roman times, fungi were not only popular in Europe, but also in Asia and South America. Kodaikanal in our country has been well-known for mushroom cultivation, which needs moist and cool climate. The tribes, who had inhabited Kodaikanal hills from time immemorial, often used wild mushrooms in their age-old rituals and for medicinal purposes. That is how the cultivation of mushrooms came into focus in the region. Mushrooms were said to be first cultivated in Asia around the year 600 AD. A mushroom dish being offered in rituals is also purported to be mentioned in ancient scriptures of India.

Mushrooms, known as the meat of the vegetable world, also come with various health benefits, including the crucial Vitamin D. Relish varutharacha kaalaan curry, a Keralite preparation, with fluffly white rice and appalams. 

Varutharacha kaalaan curry 

• Preparation Time: 15 min
• Cooking Time: 15 min
• Serves: 4
• Calories per serve: 390cl per small cup

Ingredients

Mushrooms: 1kg  | Coconut oil: 2 tbsp | Grated coconut: 1 cup | Coriander seeds: 1 tbsp | Fenugreek: 1/4 tsp | Ginger garlic paste: 1 tbsp | Red chillies: 7 | Cumin seeds: 1 tsp | Fennel seeds: 1 tsp | Cinnamon: 1 stick | Cloves: 2 | Black pepper: 1 tsp | Tamarind extract: 1/4 cup | Salt: To taste | Curry leaves: Handful (for garnish) | Shallots: 1 cup (chopped) | Green chilies: 2 slit | Coconut milk: 1/4 cup | Turmeric powder: 1 tsp | Potato: 1 large (peeled and cut into cubes) | Mustard seeds: 1/4 tsp (optional)

METHOD

• In a kadhai, add coconut, curry leaves, fenugreek, red chillies and roast till they turn golden. Roast on low to medium fire. Set aside.
• Roast the cumin seeds, fennel, coriander, black pepper and cinnamon separately on low fire. 
• Let both spice mixes cool down and grind together into a smooth paste using a little water either in a grinder or using a grinding stone. 
• In the same kadhai, add oil and let it heat up. Throw in shallots and fry till translucent. 
• Add the ginger garlic paste and saute till it browns. 
• Then add in the ground spice paste and saute it well. 
• Add in the tamarind paste at this stage and let it boil, allowing the spices to combine well.
• Add in the chopped potatoes and salt. 
• When the potatoes are half-cooked, add in the well-cleaned mushrooms. 
• Now add some coconut milk. 
• Cook for about 10 minutes and remove from the heat. Mushrooms should not be overcooked or underdone. 
• Heat some oil in a small pan and splutter some mustard seeds, two green chillies and curry leaves. Temper the curry with this. 
• Serve the curry with steamed rice, rice flour rotis or dosas. 

Kitchen Tip

•  To make crispier and soft dosas add a handful of cooked rice while grinding the batter
•  To keep salads fresh, use a chilled tray or bowl to make the salad 
•  Mushrooms stay fresh when stored in paper bags than in plastic

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