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Tracing back the origin of kebabs
Bengaluru has always been special for me because of the many memories attached to several nooks and crannies and by-lanes within the city. Recently, when I was walking down Commercial Street with my friend Tina Andre, every small shop on the street seemed like a magnet calling out to me with an invisible yet irresistible voice of temptation.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
Especially for foodies like us, there is something around every corner, be it Woody’s, which rustles up all the tiffin items and a varied popular lunch menu, to Anand Sweet House that stands testimony to some of the best chaat items, samosas and jalebis.
The lovable Shammi chacha and Giridhari bhai also have a small specialty outlet in this locality, and it has been around seemingly forever. They make delicious kebabs with so much of ease and love. Their little shop is not fancy but a small, functional place with two plastic chairs for customers to sit. During our visit, when we stopped by at the stall, Shammi chacha narrated the history of kebabs to us.
The history of the kebabs trace back to both Asian and African cuisines. The word ‘kebab’ means ‘to roast’. The term can also be referred to as a meat patty mixed with spices. Kebabs are considered to have originated in Turkey, when soldiers used to grill chunks of freshly hunted animal meat skewered on swords on open field fires. The name was first discovered in a Turkish script ‘Kyssa’i Yusuf’ in 1377, which is the oldest known source in which kebab was stated as a food item.
There are numerous varieties of kebabs and among the most famous ones is malai pista kebab. The marinating technique varies from one region to another, but revolves around a concoction of lemon juice, oil, milk, yogurt, ginger, garlic, onion juice, cinnamon, wild marjoram, tomato juice, fresh cream, dry fruits, red and green chillies, coriander, fresh mint and other spices. Another famous type originating in Turkey is called ‘steam kebab,’ which is made in an earthenware casserole. The lid is sealed so that the meat is cooked with its own juices. The most common ingredients used are thyme, pearl onions, garlic and a variety of spices.
Mughal cooking styles too have influenced India and its North Western frontier’s cuisines, especially the non-vegetarian dishes. During Akbar’s reign, not only did he promote arts and culture, but a variety of new dishes, which made their way across the country. The malai pista kebab was one such speciality among many more.
Nawabi Malai Pista Kebab
Prep time: 6 hrs
Cook time: 45 mins
Servings: 4
Ingredients
Chicken breast: 500 gm
Green chillies: 6
Coriander powder: 2 tbsp
Mint leaves: 2 tbsp
Garlic: 12 pods
Almonds: 10, peeled
Fresh cream: 1 cup
Ginger: 1 inch
Lemon juice: ½ cup
Onion: 1 big, finely chopped
Cloves: 2
Black pepper: 6, whole
Green cardamom: 6
Pista: 15, peeled
Coriander leaves: ¼ cup
Mint leaves: ¼ cup
White cumin seeds: ½ tsp
Black cumin seeds: ½ tsp
Poppy seeds: 1 tsp
Red chilli powder: 1 tsp
Papaya: 1 tbsp, crushed
Oil: 2 tbsp
Salt: to taste
Milk: 1 cup
Charcoal tandoor or griller
Method
- Wash and chop the chicken breasts into 1 ½-inch cubes.
- In a saucepan add a little oil, place on medium heat and sauté the onions, ginger and garlic. Cool and grind into a smooth paste.Â
- Soak the poppy seeds in a little milk, along with both the types of cumin. Â
- After 30 minutes grind the poppy seeds and cumins.
- Dry roast the cloves, cardamom and black pepper, and powder it.Â
- Grind the green chillies, mint leaves and coriander into a fine paste.
- Soak the almonds and pista in some fresh milk for 15 minutes and grind into paste.Â
- Mix the red chilli powder with any of the above pastes.Â
- Apply all the pastes and powders on the chicken.
- Add the cream and mix well before adding salt to taste.
- Allow the chicken to marinate overnight in fridge for best results, otherwise marinate for six hours.Â
- Thread on skewers and grill over charcoal, basting with oil or ghee.
- Serve hot.
Kitchen Tips
- Instead of scooping up a broken egg shell from a bowl with your finger, use one of the egg shell halves.
- Slit bitter gourds in the middle and apply a mixture of salt, wheat flour and curd thoroughly. Keep aside for ½ hour and then cook.
- To keep celery fresh for a long time, wrap it in aluminium foil and place in the refrigerator.Â
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes
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