Not just in Kerala, kappa makes an appearance in Tamil Pongal feasts too

Chennai

Food has no soul, it is the person who cooks who adds the soul in it, is what Aunt Sheela, Meera’s mother used to say. Aunt Lily, her sister, and she headed many charitable causes and associations like the YWCA together. Aunt Sheela was also my local guardian in Kodaikanal, where I attended boarding school with Meera. We were very close friends though the contrast in our backgrounds and lifestyles was literally black and white. I came from a conservative Brahmin family and the most adventurous dish ever served at home was ice cream, while Meera’s background was enriched by parties, outings, social events and the best of cuisines. She was the proud daughter of the famous cricketer Balu Alaganan.

Remembering our holiday at Bodinayakanur, I can still recollect the warmth and gaiety, the passion and joy, the eating episodes and music sessions, the trekking and the hordes of cousins and friends of theirs, who seemed to be present mostly at meal times. I learnt a lot about food from her grand aunt, Kamala, living in their ancestral home in Bodinayakanur. The house was more like a palace and Balu uncle was part of a family history, which dated back to the first ruler of the region that was named after the ruler, Bodayanayakkar.

Kamala athee (aunt) was particular about her large kitchen. One could always find house help busy at work, either churning butter from curds or grinding batter for idlis with the ammi kallu, or tending to the fire in the earthen fireplace, where wood was used as fuel. The kitchen had wooden cupboards lining the walls and one area was cordoned off with a row of mud adupu (stoves).The kitchen was literally a treasure trove of heirloom cookware and crockery, passed down from athee’s grandmother and mother. Some of the pots were over 60 years old and the glass jars were over 100 years old. The British influence could be seen in these jars and some of the other kitchen equipment. A huge grinding stone was installed permanently in one corner.

As a child, Meera says she saw people constantly popping in to sample her grand aunt’s food when she would go there nearly every year to visit with her mother. She relished the many home-cooked dishes that were made especially for them and I was lucky enough to be there once or twice. The old-fashioned pots and pans saw the birth of some rare tasty dishes, which till today is remembered by many including me. Some of the dishes are meen vevichathu, kaanja moru molagai, kozhi varutha vindaloo and kappa roast among others.

Being a vegetarian, I eyed all the dishes suspiciously until I was assured by her grand aunt that they didn’t contain any meat. The kappa varuthathu (roast) always remained in my memory because I could not get this dish at home. This dish is often made during Pongal along with a brinjal gotsu and venn pongal. Since Pongal is a harvest festival celebrated across the state, I thought this is an apt time to share the recipe.

Kappa Kazhangu Varuthathu 

Prep time:  10 min

Cooking time:  15 min 

Serves: 4-5 pax

Calories:  220 per serve

Ingredients 

Coconut: 1, big-sized, grated

Red chillies: 3

Green chillies: 4, chopped finely

Garlic cloves: 5

Shallots: 10

Turmeric powder: 1 tsp

Tapioca: 1 kg, skinned and centre stem removed

Pure ghee: 1 tbsp

Mustard seeds: 1/2 tsp

Methi seeds: 1/4 tsp

Cumin seeds: 1/4 tsp

Coconut oil: 1 tsp

Black pepper: 1/4 tsp

Curry leaves: 2 sprigs

Ginger: 1/2 tsp, chopped finely

Coriander seeds: 1/4 tsp

Fennel seeds: 1/4 tsp

Salt to taste

Method

• Place a mud chetti or saucepan on the stove. 
• Dry roast the coriander seeds, red chillies, methi seeds, cumin seeds, pepper, fennel seeds and a few curry leaves. 
• Powder the spices and keep aside. 
• Boil tapioca in a pot with water. Cook, but let it remain firm in.
• Place the saucepan on fire again. Pour 1 tbsp ghee.
• When hot, add mustard seeds and curry leaves.
• Add the green chillies 
• Add half of the grated coconut. 
• Add ginger and garlic to it and sauté till the coconut and garlic turn light golden-brown. 
• Add powdered ingredients and turmeric.
• Add cooked tapioca semi-mashed to the pot followed by salt. 
• Mix all the ingredients together until combined.
• Cook for five minutes on low heat. 
• Remove and sprinkle remaining grated coconut and 1/4 tsp of coconut oil on top and serve hot with venn pongal or rice kanji.

Kitchen Tip

• When you have lemons in excess, freeze the lemon juice in ice cube trays and use it whenever needed in your recipes. It stays without spoiling for 15-20 days.
• Wet the coconut and draw an imaginary line around the middle with your fingers and then try breaking it. You will be surprised to find the coconut in exact halves. 
• Add a tbsp of fresh lemon juice and a drop of ghee when cooking rice to get fluffy and whiter grains

— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes

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