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There’s something ‘fishy’ behind this biryan’s delicious taste
Rakesh Sharma, Ravish Malhotra and K Kalyanaraman, share more than a love for flying. These renowned pilots love the famous Kerala varutha meen biryani.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
As we celebrate festivals after festivals in the sanctity and peace of our neighbourhoods, we seldom realise the value of those men and women guarding our country day and night. The men and women in the Defence Services are true Indians — they speak a common language, have similar food habits, celebrate all festivals, worship at all shrines and keep our flag flying high. They use all their energy to drive away enemies, who want to infiltrate into our country.
It was an honour to play host to Retd. Wing Commander K Kalyanaraman and his talented wife Jaya, who was the first lady to make a short film on women in the Air Force. These officers and their wives are used to living in all sorts of conditions and in any type of accommodation; they are like nomads who go from place to place, making a home wherever they are. Jaya was known to cook the most delicious food with whatever was available and her house always had the fascinating smell of food.
Kalyan, Rakesh Sharma and Ravish Malhotra were posted together in Bengaluru and being test pilots had the added risk of trying out new aircraft. Rakesh Sharma is the first Indian to travel in space. Ravish was the standby to go into space and both were honoured with National Awards. Sharma was conferred with the honour of Ashoka Chakra upon his return from space, while Ravish was conferred with Kirti Chakra.
While training in Moscow, both Rakesh and Ravi missed Indian food. They were partial to a particular fish biryani, which Jaya used to cook when she called them over. This famous Kerala dish was monumental and was served at every New Year party, jointly hosted by them. The tradition still continues and even though they all have retired, the fish biryani and get-togethers of these silent heroes are carried forward, telling its own story.
Meen varutha biryani
Prep time: 20 min
Cooking time: 20 min
Calories per serve: 235 calories
Serves: 4 pax
Ingredients
Seer fish: 500 gm, washed and cleaned
Red chillies: 4, powdered
Ground turmeric: 1 tsp
Salt: 1/2 tsp
Coriander powder: 1/2 tsp
Fennel seed powder: 1/4tsp
umin powder: 1/4 tsp
Coconut oil or vegetable oil: for shallow-frying the fish
For the masala
Onion, sliced: 150 gm
Fresh green chillies: 20 gm
Ginger: 20 gm
Garlic: 20 gm
Coriander seeds: 20 gm
Red chillies: 5
Beaten curd: 1/4 cup
Khuskhus (poppy seeds): 1tsp
Salt: to taste
Lime juice: of 2 limes
Coriander leaves: 1/4 cup, chopped
Mint leaves: 1/4 cup, chopped
Star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, bay leaf: 5 gm each
Ghee: 350 gm
Onion: 2, finely sliced
Cashew nuts: 30 gm
Raisins: 30 gm
Kaima rice: 500 gm, washed, soaked and drained
Rosewater: 1tsp
Garam masala: 10 gm
Saffron threads: 1/4 tsp
Method
- For the fish, mix half the chilli powder, ground turmeric, coriander powder, fennel seed powder, cumin powder and salt, and apply over the fish.
- Heat oil for shallow-frying in a pan set over medium-high heat and fry the fish. Remove onto kitchen paper and reserve the oil.
- Grind garlic, ginger and green chillies.
- Grind the coriander and red chillies.
- Grind the khuskhus into fine paste.
- Grind all the garam masala items into a paste.
- Place a clean pan over a medium heat, pour oil and fry onions until translucent.
- Add green chillies, ginger, and garlic paste and sauté well.
- Add the ground coriander chilli paste and sauté.
- Add the poppy seed paste and sauté, till oil appears at the side.
- Add beaten curd.
- Add salt, lime juice, chopped coriander and mint leaves and 120 ml of water and cook well.
- Add the fried fish and mix well without breaking the fish.
- For the biryani, heat ghee in a thick-bottomed, large saucepan.
- Fry the thinly-sliced onions until golden-brown and remove to kitchen paper.
- Fry the cashew nuts and raisins.
- Add the drained rice to the ghee and stir well.
- Add double the quantity of hot water, salt and cook on a low heat until the rice absorbs the water.
- To assemble and cook, grease a thick-bottomed pan with a well-fitting lid, and put in half the rice in an even layer. Sprinkle with half the rosewater, garam masala, the saffron, and reserved browned onions.
- Top the rice with half the fish and its masala. Sprinkle with the fried cashew nuts and raisins, then evenly spread over the remaining rice and sprinkle with the rest of the rosewater.
- Cover tightly with foil and then a lid, and continue to cook for a further 10 minutes over a medium heat.
- Serve piping hot with cucumber raita.
Kitchen Tip
- Use spices in moderation; less is more. Adding too much spice can make a dish bitter
- Always try and use fresh spices and never buy them in bulk as once you open the packets the aroma will reduce. Store spices in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place
- When grinding your own spice mixture, dry roasting the spices prior to grinding releases their flavour
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes
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