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From Vedas to weddings, millets have cast their magic across centuries
The sound of the nadhaswaram filled the air with melodious vibrations as we stepped out of the car, to attend a very special wedding at the Vaitheeswaran Kovil in Kumbakonam, Tamil Nadu. Laughter, gaiety, splendour and the sacred chant of mantras greeted us as we entered the venue.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
Weddings in South India have their own charm, with ceremonies like nishchithartham, lagnam, Kashi yatra and kanya danam — in fact, there are over twelve different kinds of wedding traditions observed. Some rituals are common across communities in South India, whereas some traditions are absolutely unique since each state has its own cultural flavour. Other than the ceremonies, all the states have various kinds of food, music and clothing at different stages of the wedding.
Speaking of food, since the wedding was in Kumbakonam — which is known for its filter coffee — we were keen to attend the festivities in anticipation of the coffee. Its strong aroma entinced us as we entered the temple and we made a bee line to where it originated from. Sacks filled to the brim with coffee beans, vegetables, coconuts and various other things were stacked against dusty walls covered in portraits of gods and goddesses. Tables were laid out serving hot breakfast, where the caterer explained to us that the coffee was not the ordinary filter kind, but what is known as the famous ‘Kumbakonam degree kaapi’. Apart from this signature brew, we were introduced to another traditional dish from the place — thinai kara kuzhi paniyaram and red chilli chutney.
The use of millets like thinai is as ancient as the Vedas and was made famous in many dishes during the Chola era. Similarly, millets have been mentioned in some of the oldest Yajurveda texts, identifying foxtail millet (priyangava), barnyard millet (aanava) and black finger millet (shyaamaka). This indicates that millet consumption was very common during the Bronze Age in India, dating back to 4,500 BC. Common millet is currently believed to have been the first domesticated kind dating back about 10,300 years before the present. Now, these superfoods have entered the Indian market in a big way and are available in all gourmet and organic stores.
As we went through the blissful journey of a traditional South Indian breakfast served at the wedding, it was fascinating to be introduced to dishes that are a part of our rich heritage. Having satiated our hunger, we sat and observed all the traditions of the wedding and blessed the couple. Lunch followed with all the traditional sweets and dishes and ended with the offering of betel leaf (paan). Thoroughly satisfied and a lot more knowledgeable about our traditional foods, I decided to share a recipe I learnt that day — millet kara kuzhi paniyaram.
Millet Kara Kuzhi Paniyaram
Prep Time:Â 30 mins
Cook Time: 18 mins
Serves:Â 25 Paniyarams
Calories per serve: 5 pieces - 280 CL
Ingredients
Barnyard millet (kuthiraivaali) 1/4 cup
Foxtail millet (thinai) 1/4 cup
Kodo millet (varagu) 1/4 cup
Par boiled idli rice (pulungal arisi) 1/4 cup
Skinned whole urad dal 1/4 cup
Fenugreek seeds 1/2 tsp
Jeera 1/2 tsp
Salt to taste
For the seasoningÂ
Pearl onion 1 cup, finely chopped
Green chilli 1 or 2, finely chopped
Ginger 1-inch piece, finely chopped
Coriander leaves 2 tbsp, finely chopped
Curry leaves 2 sprigs, chopped
Cashew nuts: 1 tsp, cut into small bits.
Red chillies 3
Groundnut oil 1/4 cup
Mustard seeds 1 tsp
Urad dal 2 tsp
Bengal gram dal 1 tbsp
Peppercorns 3/4-1 tsp
Asafoetida 1/4 tsp
Pure ghee 1 tsp
Cooked rice 1 tbsp
Steamer
Paniyaram maker
Preparation
- Wash and dry-roast the millets.
- Soak all the millets, rice, urad dal and fenugreek together for 5-6 hours.
- Grind it into a smooth paste in a blender adding little water and 1 tbsp cooked rice. The consistency of the batter should be similar to idli batter, neither too watery or too thick.
- Add salt to the batter, mix well and leave it to ferment overnight. Batter will rise up in the morning. Mix well and now add the rest of the ingredients.Â
- Heat oil in a pan, add mustard seeds. When it splutters, add jeera and red chillies.       Â
- Add urad dal, Bengal gram dal , asafoetida, peppercorns and sauté until dal turns golden.
- Then add onion, ginger, green chillies, coriander leaves and curry leaves.
- Add ghee and the broken cashew nuts and sauté.
- Add salt as per requirement.
- Saute on medium flame until the onion becomes transparent.
- Remove and let it cool a bit.Â
- Add this to the batter and mix well.Â
- Heat a paniyaram pan, add 1/2 tsp of oil in all the holes.
- Fill the holes with the seasoned paniyaram batter.
- Place in a big vessel with water in it.Â
- Close it with a lid and steam like idlis.
- Cook covered on low heat. When the corners start lifting up, flip the paniyaram over and cook uncovered on medium heat.
- Once done, remove the paniyaram from the pan and serve hot. Serve with red chilli chutney or any chutney of your choice.
Kitchen Tip
- To check if it is cooked, prick a tooth pick in the centre of the paniyaram. If it comes out clean, it is cooked
- Roasting nuts, rice, rava and dal (lentils) before cooking with it increases its flavours considerably
- For making softer idlis or paniyaram add some sago or cooked rice while making the batter
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes
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