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Odathey nandu, odathey: A crab curry whose history is as unique as its name
On a lazy Sunday, after a cup of refreshing filter coffee, I was ready to face the day, whichever way it would unfold. I received a phone call from Arun, a photographer, and he called to say they were returning to shore after fishing for fresh crabs in the sea.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
I put on my shoes and walked along the sand to a point where lots of activities were happening. Fishermen were emerging from small boats, hauling in their nets and displaying the fresh catch of the day. Arun proudly showed me the fresh crabs he had caught and explained how his mother was going to make a heritage crab curry called ‘Odathey nandu, odathey’ (don’t run away crabs, don’t run). This was especially exciting, as he invited to me to watch his mother cook using firewood — they never have bought a gas stove or even a mixer-grinder ever.
We entered a quaint little house, which took me back in time. It could easily have been built in the early 1900s. The interiors looked like an old agraharam home — an open courtyard with four carved pillars supporting it and scarce furniture. The bathrooms were in the backyard, which had different plants and fruiting trees. The vegetable patch, which supplied them their daily requirement, was next to a small well, still in use. Here was an example of natural and healthy living, without pollution or machines to make life more comfortable.
The smell of food being cooked was like a welcome warmth, attracting everyone towards it. Two firewood chulas (mud stoves) were burning brightly, with delicious dishes bubbling and boiling inside big earthen urlis (traditional cookware). One contained the crab curry and the other, prawn fry. Vijaya’s crab curry recipe was passed down several generations, she told me, and only by word of mouth. Apart from that, steamed white rice with tamarind and garlic rasam, appalams and a big glass of buttermilk formed the rest of our lunch spread.
IngredientsÂ
1/2 kg crab cleaned and cut
9 dried red chillies
1/2 tsp aniseed (saunf)1/4 tsp poppy seeds (khus khus)
10 peppercorns
1/4 cup grated coconut
1/4 cup tamarind
1/4 tsp fenugreek (methi seeds)
1 tsp cumin (jeera)
1 cup small shallots, peeled
8 garlic pods, chopped finely
1 tomato, chopped
1/4 cup curry leaves
2 cups water
To taste salt
1/4 cup coconut oil
1 tbsp thick coconut milkÂ
Method
- Grind together the dry red chillies, aniseed, poppy seeds, peppercorn, coconut and tamarind.Â
- Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed kadai, add fenugreek and jeera.Â
- Sauté till browned for a minute or so.
- Add shallots, garlic and curry leaves and sauté for 3-4 minutes.Â
- Add tomatoes and turmeric powder along with the ground masala and fry till the oil separates.Â
- Add water and bring it to a boil, reduce the flame and let it simmer for 5 minutes.
- Add crab and cook for 10 min, covered.
- Stir a couple of times till the crabs are cooked and the gravy thickens.Â
- Pour the 1 tbsp coconut milk in it and stir.
- Turn off the flame.
- Serve with hot steamed rice and papad.
Nandu kuzhambu
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves: 4
 — Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes
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