One reason, they say, is that consumers in rich countries are becoming more aware of the seafood industry’s environmental problems, including overfishing and the health risks of some seafood. Another is that today’s plant-based start-ups do a better job of approximating fish flavour and texture than earlier ones did — an important consideration for non-vegetarians. “This isn’t your grandfather’s alternative fish stick,” said Joshua Katz, an analyst at the consulting firm McKinsey who has studied the alt-protein industry. “There are a number of people already looking at alternative hamburgers,” he added. “You might actually say, ‘I should work on something else,’ and seafood is still a massive market with compelling reasons to work on it.”