This tawa fish fry recipe from AD 1502 is ‘sea’riously worth trying

Chennai

Shyam, the actor, had left his shooting unit and come down to see how the fishermen hauled the catch in as he was playing a role in a period film involving the Vijayanagar dynasty during AD 1502. He periodically reminded me of my promise to serve him a whole fish roasted in the South Indian style. We saw the nets being hauled in and the catch of the day — some alive and jumping in the nets.

Once the fish were sorted, the haggling and bargaining between the fishermen who caught and the fisherwomen who would set out to hawk it started in full earnest. We picked up the produce we wanted and left the place.

While cooking it, Shyam asked me if I knew of the history of some seafood dishes, which have travelled down through the ages. He was to play the Vijayanagar king Krishnadevaraya, who while eating at a banquet in his palace bites on a gold coin that was inside the fish’s stomach. Shyam further enlightened me about the said kingdom and its glorious period and it was most interesting to hear what he had to say.

The Vijayanagara kings were apparently very liberal in throwing banquets and donating food. Literary works of the period describe various kinds of dishes. Salyanna salyodana (a rice-based dish) is frequently mentioned. Other rice dishes were chitranna (sesame rice), paramanna (sweet rice) and dadhyanna or mosaru butti (curd rice).

Pickles and salt were the first to be served at a dinner. Plenty of green vegetables were used for cooking and favourite seasoning were cumin seeds, black sesame and pepper, fenugreek and mustard. Pure ghee was the cooking medium. This proves how aware they were about nutrition and some of the recipes, including this whole fish tawa fry, are being cooked even today.

Whole fish tawa fry  

Prep time: 45 mins

Cook time: 10 mins

Servings: 2

Calories: 390 cal per serve

Ingredients

Snapper/pomfret/seer fish: 1 big, fresh one

Lime juice: 1/2 cup

Red chilli powder: 1 1/4 tsp

Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp

Cumin (jeera) powder: 1 tsp

Coriander (dhaniya) powder: 1 tsp

Salt as per taste

Ginger-garlic paste: 1 tsp

Coconut milk: 1 tbsp

Pepper powder: 1/2 tsp

Coconut oil: 3 1/2 tbsp

Rock salt: 1 tbsp (for cleaning fish)

Big bowl

Non-stick tawa/well-used iron tawa

For garnishing and serving

Lemon wedges: 4

Coriander leaves: 1 tsp, finely chopped

Curry leaves: 1 tsp, finely chopped

Onion rings

Sweet lime slices (optional)

Method 

• Place the fish in a bowl and first rub rock salt on it.
• Use a sharp fish knife to clean the inside, remove fins and remove the extras from the skin. Also remove the eyes if you do not want it.
• Thoroughly clean the fish with salt, lemon juice and little turmeric and make cuts breadth-wise on the fish to enable masala to seep in.
• Pour lime juice all over it and spread it with your hands. 
• Take another bowl add all the dry ingredients coriander powder, chilli powder, turmeric powder, cumin powder, ginger-garlic paste and salt to taste. 
• Pour one tsp of coconut oil and mix all the masala together. Add 1 tbsp coconut milk and mix it again. 
• Apply this paste and coat all over the fish and in between the cuts. 
• Pour the remaining lime juice over it and let it marinate in the fridge for half an hour. 
• Place a non-stick or well-used iron tawa on the stove and coat the tawa nicely with the rest of the coconut oil. 
• Place the fish in the centre and when roasted for about 5 minutes, turn it over to roast the other side for another 5 minutes. Ensure fish is gently turned over or it will break. 
• The flame should be low/medium or the fish will burn. The fish can be roasted or grilled in the oven too.
• Remove fish and place on absorbent paper to remove excess oil. 
• Now plate it with onion rings, lemon slices and sweet lime slices. Sprinkle the coriander and curry leaves over it. It is best served with steamed white rice or biriyani.

Kitchen Tips

• Spices like cinnamon, cloves and citrus peels can be used to remove smells from your kitchen by simmering these spices in some water.
• Keep a small bowl of vinegar mixed with baking soda and a slice of lemon next to the gas stove. It will help reduce the odour while frying fish and other foods with a pungent smell.
• Test the fish before buying by pressing a finger down on it. If a dent doesn’t form, it means the fish is fresh and unspoilt.

— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the  author of Festive Offerings to  the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes

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