

Chennai
The place to be in during Dussehra is south India or West Bengal. The colour, aura, grandeur, faith and divinity all combined make it a dazzling spectacle. As far as I can remember, we always spent our Dussehra holidays at a huge castle-like house, built by my grandfather about a century ago in the heart of Mylapore in Chennai. It still stands testimony to thousands of memories and festivals celebrated over the years. The garden in the front, with a musical fountain, would have several flowering plants to be offered for everyday puja. At the back end of the house was a mini fruit orchard, with fruits like chikoo, jackfruit, mango, banana, lemon and coconuts. Our neighbor was the famous actor of the thirties to fifties, MK Radha, whose first movie was Sathi Leelavathi and the last was Uthama Puthiran. His sons Sukumar and Viji were our best friends and playmates during holidays. We celebrated festivals together, staged plays and created innumerable memories. They were the only ones my grandmother welcomed into the kitchen to share a festive meal. Sukumar was stricken by polio when young, so had a special place in everyone’s heart. Dussehra time also meant arranging the 18-steps golu, by creating a theme.
Every day was a different prasadam, and whosever home we visited, we ate a variety of mixed rice, sundals which was the norm, as mentioned in the Sangam literature as well. MK Radha’s favourite was kadambam sadam, which dates back to Raja Raja Cholan times. The book, Tamizhar Unavu, written by Bhaktavachala Bharathi, has a separate chapter on ‘food in Sangam age’. Tamil poetic work Perumpanatruppadai records a recipe in which varagu rice, lentils, tamarind pulp and broad beans were cooked along with vegetables for festivals to be offered to the divine. This Dussehra, I pay ode to one of the famous actors of pre-independent India and a great human being with his favourite dish.
KOVIL KADAMBAM RICE RECIPE
Preparation Time: 30 min
Cooking Time: 30 min
Serves: 5
Calories per serve: 310 per serve
Ingredients
Rice: 1 cup
Toor dal: 1/4 cup
Channa dal: 1/4 cup
Tamarind: ¼ cup soaked
Cow ghee: 2 tbsp
Gingelly oil: 1 tbsp
Turmeric powder: 1 tsp
Coriander seeds: 1 tbsp
Fenugreek seeds: ½ tsp
Cumin seeds: 1 tsp
Urad dal: 1 tsp
Sesame seeds: 1 tsp
Red chillies whole: 9
Whole black pepper: 1 tsp
Curry leaves: 1 cup
Asafoetida: 1 tbsp
Grated coconut: 1 cup
Salt: to taste
Black eyed peas: 1 tbsp
Karamani: 1 tbsp
Brinjal: 2 small sized
Pumpkin: 1/2 cup
Ash gourd: 1/2 cup
Cluster beans: 6
Broad beans: 6
Drumstick: 1
Potato: 1 medium sized
Beans: a handful
Green chillies: 2
Curry leaves: 1/4 cup
Jaggery: 1 tbsp
Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
Fresh coriander chopped: A small bunch
METHOD
Kitchen Tips
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of ‘Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes’
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