From townlet to township: The story of T Nagar

CHENNAI: Have you ever wanted to walk through time? A stroll through Theagaraya Nagar might help. An area planned in the 1920s, built on one of the long-lost lakes of Madras, T Nagar tells the stories of aspirants, revolutionaries, diplomats, and traders. The tale of T Nagar begins with the draining of the Long Tank lake, and what was once a quaint group of villages gradually turned into one of the city’s most commercial spaces. But the land never forgot its roots. The cluster of villages it once was is sustained by the temples of folk deities, the earliest among them believed to be almost 300 years old.

These villages gave way to the township in an era where Indians were in power for the first time in the provinces. The Madras Presidency’s Justice Party developed the area, immortalising its planners by naming the streets after them, the area itself named after one of the founders of the party, Sir Pitty Theagaraya Chetty. But Panagal Park, named after the Rajah of Panagal, and Dr Nair Road, named after Dr TM Nair, are not the only political remnants of this era. The statue of Ma Po Sivagnanam, founder of the Tamil Arasu Kazhagam, and the MGR Memorial House also tell us the stories of other political leaders of the time.

There also exists a structure that perfectly represents the essence of T Nagar, a mix of colonial and post-colonial tales, the Annai Illam, located on South Boag Road. One of the earliest residents of this house was George T Boag, an ICS officer of the Government of India and the namesake of the street itself. Another prominent resident was Sir Kurma Venkata Reddy Naidu, a key figure in the Justice Party. Today, it is well known as the house of veteran actor Sivaji Ganesan, survived by his family, and proudly houses what the residents lovingly call the ‘Cinema Pillayar Koil’.

The houses of T Nagar have several more stories to tell, the story of beloved actor Manorama ‘Aachi’, and the story of Indian textile industrialist Nalli Kuppuswami Chetty. This calm, residential side of T Nagar is countered by the ever-bustling, bright commercial spaces of Pondy Bazaar and Ranganathan Street, both with rich historical significance. Some of the earliest businesses to set up shop in T Nagar were Nalli Silks, established by Nalli Kuppuswami Chetty, and Naidu Hall, owned by MG Naidu. Today, these businesses stand tall, while also sharing space with many other prominent establishments.

Chennai is a melting pot of different cultures, and T Nagar is a perfect example of how the city continues to value its history and sense of camaraderie. The celebration of the Amman festivals continues to this day. The political essence, beginning with the Justice Party, lives on through the many political parties that have their head offices here. The gathering of neighbours at the radio station outside Panagal Park to listen to the 7:15 pm news has now taken the form of exchanging opinions at the nearest tea stall. And the myriad memories of folklore and culture remain forever ensconced in the streets of Theagaraya Nagar.

The writer’s interest lies in delving deep into the history, culture, folklore and people of different neighbourhoods of Chennai