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Restaurant Review: Grill O'Phillic, a contemporary barbecue place in good old Triplicane
One of the oldest neighbourhoods in Chennai, Triplicane is historically much older than the city itself. With its traditional row houses and distinctive architecture, it stands as an epitome of the real Madras.
Chennai
And on one Thursday evening, as we drove through this busy area, it was bustling with activity as people walked in and out of the famous Big Mosque and Parthasarathy Swamy temple, and cows weaved through gnarled traffic. While we pulled over in front of the iconic and now defunct Star Talkies theatre, we couldn’t help but notice a particularly well-lit property in one of the quaint bylanes. As we drove closer, we were pleasantly surprised to find Grill O’Phillic, a contemporary barbecue place in good old Triplicane.Â
As we entered the 90-seater diner, the interiors of which are quite neat and simple, we were greeted by its MD, Dr Mahathir Mohammed. We pointed out that this locality isn’t the first place that comes to one’s mind when one thinks of barbecue; Mohammed said that it is this very cliché he is trying to break. We were then joined by head chef Raja Hussain, who comes with an experience of over 20 years working across Southeast Asia and the Middle East.Â
After a small conversation, we hit the starters with malai kebab. The succulent chunks of chicken wrapped in cheese and sour cream along with spices and a generous squeeze of lime were just perfect. Then came the shrimp. With its smoky-sweet and slightly spicy flavour, the grilled shrimp was hard to resist. We also tasted mushrooms and paneer. While the grilled mushrooms were juicy and intensely flavourful with a meaty texture, the paneer marinated with yoghurt, turmeric, ginger and spices was a sheer delight. We then tried the pla muek yang (Thai charred squid) — grilled squid covered in a tangy sauce and topped with peanuts and cilantro. The salty/sour/ spicy/sweet notes in this preparation were in perfect balance. The best part of the starters, however, was the tandoori pompret. This delightful indulgence with exotic flavours of spices all wrapped in the fish and then grilled was irresistible. We then headed for the main course with mutton dum biryani. Although theÂ
meat was perfectly cooked, the rice was a tad dry. We were also treated to the classic kozhi varutha curry – cooked chicken in a perfect blend of roasted coconut and spicy curry.Â
It was finally time for dessert and while the dessert counter was still in conception during our visit, there could be nothing better than a bowl of warm and creamy carrot halwa. The wonderfully rich and nutty texture, and the spicy aroma of cardamom and cinnamon left us craving for more.
FOOD TRAILÂ
Grill O’Phillic, The Mount Riviera, #18/6 Vallabha Street, TriplicaneÂ
Cuisine: Multi-cuisineÂ
Must try: Tandoori pompret, malai kebab, Pla Muek Yang and carrot halwa Contact: + 91 76677 77864/5
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