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Lentil stuffed snake gourds: A dish with origins from Pallava times
The divinity of Kanchipuram and the diversity of its food legacy left behind by the great kings who ruled the region transforms the Kanchi experience into an eternal memory.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
The very name of Kanchipuram invokes a divine bond with the past, the place and possibilities of exciting finds. Nataraj Sastry, the head priest of the Kanchipuram Kamakshi Temple, was the one who first introduced me to the temple, its history and the significance of it being one of the Shakti Peethas. The Shakti Peethas are the divine temples of the Adi Parashakti (goddess Parvati). There are 51 Shakti Peethas, linking to the 51 alphabet in Sanskrit. There are also debates that the old Kanchi Temple is the Shakti Peetha where philosopher Adi Sankaracharya had installed the Shri Chakra.
It is believed that the tandav (dance) of Lord Shiva, with the mortal remains of Shakti in his hands after she jumped into the sacrificial fire conducted by her father, was because Shiva was refused an invite for the yagna and Shakti could not bear the insult. As Shiva danced, various parts of Shakti are said to have fallen onto the earth in different parts of India. The part that fell on Kanchipuram is believed to be the navel and a stupa was built around that place. Those fortunate enough to get a darshan in the sanctum sanctorum hug the stupa, as it is supposed to radiate positive energy that is said to be a cure to many ailments.
Nataraj Sastry and I were producing a show for a leading Tamil channel with a story based on Shakti Peethas. Thus, one morning, along with my friends Ramesh, his wife and Gopal, I headed for a darshan at the Kanchi temple from Chennai. My mouth was watering thinking of some of the great food we would get to taste at an eatery run by Sastry, who was a walking encyclopedia on heritage foods from the South.
There was silence as the driver sped down the dusty roads. Ramesh looked out of the window trying to spot the temple, as we were almost there. Instead the rising sun, a cavalry of wispy amber rays, the ethereal palette of the daybreak and the deep silence of the moment left us all awestruck. The peace and tranquillity was broken by the honking of a truck behind, bringing us back to reality. At Kanchipuram, we were greeted, and then proceeded towards the darshan, which was a peaceful and divine experience. Later, we walked around admiring the architecture that was built thousands of years ago.
Then was the time for one of the most important aspects of the trip — to try out heritage dishes at Sastry’s café. It was so popular with everyone who visited the temple, as the eatery was right across it. The quaint little place with pictures all over the walls had wooden benches and tables dotting the small space. The smell of filter coffee and Tha njavur sambar was an all-pervading odour here.
We tried a dish which was unique to Tamil Nadu, with origins from the Pallava times. It was snake gourd stuffed with a special mixture of lentils, coconut chutney and vegetables of the season. Potatoes were supposed to be a much later addition, but the most popular one said Sastry. So there we were, with a banana leaf meal laid out before us — with poriyal, sambar, kootu, rasam, appalam and the dish of the day, stuffed snake gourd or podalangai adachudu. Commonly known as the serpent food, the strikingly-long vegetable is known for its medicinal purposes. Though it is said to have originated in India, it is seldom known by many.
The dish had all the flavours and a crispy texture to it on the outside. Each mouthful was ecstasy and so I felt it had to be shared with you all. My friends Ramesh and Gopal had quickly cleared up all the pieces and looked hopefully at the cook for second helpings!
Podalangai Aduchudu [Stuffed Snake Gourd]
Recipe
Prep time: 20 min
Pre-prep: 2 hrs soaking of dal
Cooking time: 10 min
Serves: 4
Calories per serve: 170 cal
Ingredients
Snake Gourd: 1 long size
Toor dal: 1/2 cup
Bengal gram: 1/2 cupÂ
Red chillies: 2
Asafoetida: a pinch
Grated coconut: ½ cupÂ
Potato: 2 boiled
Green chillies: 2 chopped fine
Ginger: 1-inch piece chopped
Shallots: 1/2 cup chopped
Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
Chilli powder: 1/4 tsp
Jeera powder: 1/2 tspÂ
Salt: as per taste
Coconut oil/sesame oil: 1 1/2 tbsp
Mustard: 1/2 tsp
Cumin: 1/2 tsp
Directions
- Soak both the dals with red chillies and a pinch of asafoetida for two hours. Drain the water and grind with salt to a coarse paste.Â
- Grease idli plate and lay the paste onto that and steam it like idli for 10 minutes. Remove it and cool it.
- Crumble to a fine paste-like consistency with hand.
- Boil potatoes and mash them well.Â
- In a pan, add a teaspoon of oil. Once hot, add mustard, cumin, green chillies, shallots, ginger, asafoetidia and sauté for a while. Add the mashed potatoes, chilli powder, cumin powder, turmeric and salt to taste.
- To that, add the dal mixture and one more spoon of oil. Sauté for a few minutes.Â
- Then add grated coconut and mix it well. Remove from heat. Stuffing is ready.
- Cut the snake gourd into 2 inch long circular pieces. Using a teaspoon, gently remove the seeds.Â
- Rub a little oil, sat and chilli powder on the snake gourd pieces.Â
- Steam the snake gourd pieces, till almost 3/4th cooked and remove.Â
- Stuff the potato-dal mixture in the snake gourd pieces.Â
- Place a tawa on the stove. Pour one teaspoon of oil.Â
- When hot, place the stuffed snake gourds carefully. First cook on one side and then carefully turn over to the other side. Keep the flame on medium and use a little more oil if needed.Â
- Take out all the grilled snake gourds and arrange on a flat dish. Sprinkle the left over coconut over it and serve.
Kitchen Tips
- For this dish, you have to use the long variety of snake gourd
- You could use paneer or soya instead of dal for the filling. Similarly any vegetable besides potatoes
- Cook on medium heat while frying, grilling or sautéing
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of ‘Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes’
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