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Vengaya sagle: A soulful Konkani dish that marries drumsticks with eggplants
An adventurous drive from Chennai to Mangaluru was one of the most exciting journeys I’ve undertook, as we got to see myriad scenic views, taste different dishes en route and also got to see many historical sites and places of worship. Our first destination was Udupi, so we crossed Hosur, Hassan, Dharmasthala and a few other places.
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One of my best friends, actor Ramesh and his wife were travelling along with me to Mangaluru, famous for the variety in its food offerings — be it Malavi, Saraswat Brahmin or Konkani. As we approached Udupi, our car swerved to one side due to a punctured tyre near a village named Aluru. No one was hurt except for a few small bruises, but the incident was enough to gather the village folks around us. From water to hand fans, we were engulfed by thoughtful care and hospitality. We were then taken to the panchayat head Manjunath’s house, which was bright and colourful with cane furniture adorning a circular verandah.
It was ensured that our bruises were first attended to, and then asked to stay for a celebration lunch, as it happened to be Manjunath’s birthday. Running short of time, we at first wanted to politely decline the offer, but realising that it was lunch hour and our driver had to change the tyre before we hit the highways again, we agreed to dine with them gratefully. We were first offered a local drink made out of kokum (a plant of the mangosteen family popularly found in Mangaluru) and jaggery. A special Konkani thali was also being prepared to celebrate his birthday. We were seated in the verandah, which had wooden pillars, supporting the house made of laterite bricks, with a red-tiled roof and cow dung-washed floors. Manjunath’s mother came to greet us and took us to a spacious kitchen-cum-dining space. On one side was an antique wooden table with matching chairs all around, and on the extreme end of the room was the massive kitchen, with garlic, onions and bananas hanging from a beam. There were three firewood stoves burning with stone pots on them. The table was laid out with shiny brass plates, glasses and bowls.
The cooked dishes, which were all offered to their family deities initially, were all served in our thalis, along with fried buttermilk chillies (taaka mirsang in Konkani). Our mouths were drooling as we sat down to eat. The dishes included karmbi nonche (raw mango pickle), padvale upkari (snake gourd with fresh coconut), mooga dali kosambari (moong dal salad), kadgi chakka (raw jackfruit dish), vengaya sagle (eggplant, drumstick curry), urad pappads, mirsangi bhaje (green chilly fritters), kele phodi (fried plantain), kokum kadhi (coconut milk and kokum water-based dish), Konkani dal, rice and ghee. Desserts were puran poli (lentil-stuffed sweet flatbreads) and payasu (payasam). Though the household consumed non-vegetarian food, being Manjunath’s birthday, all the food served was vegetarian. As we began to eat, ajji (grandma) served each of us personally, and rarely have I eaten a meal at a stranger’s house served with so much love. Each dish was beyond ordinary, but my personal favourite was the vengaya sagle, made out of home-grown brinjals and drumsticks.
Konkani cuisine is unique, particularly in the sense that it contains food items that are not consumed commercially. Tradition is indeed of high importance to the cuisine, which is influenced by geographical neighbours, as well as the western and Middle Eastern traders of the past, including Portugal and Arabia. However, it is the local homes where the tradition is celebrated, giving out the best of Konkani cuisine.
Konkani Style Vengaya Sagle Eggplant And Drumstick Curry
Prep time: 15 min
Cooking time: 25 min
Serves: 4
Calories per serve: 280 cl per serve
Ingredients
Drumstick: 1 (cut into 2-inch long pieces)
Medium-sized eggplants: 5
Mustard seeds: 1 tsp
Urad dal flour: 1 tsp
Coconut oil: 2 tbsp
Fresh grated coconut: 1 cup
Dried red chillies: 4
Coriander seeds: 1 tbsp
Split white urad dal: 1 tbsp
Tamarind: a small lemon sized amount
Jaggery: 1 tbsp
Curry leaves: 1/4 cup
Coriander leaves: 1/ cup (finely chopped)
METHOD
- To begin, first cook the drumsticks in about 1/4 cup water, salt and little turmeric powder, till fully cooked. Cook on a medium heat and set aside once done.
- Then heat a skillet, roast the coriander seeds and urad dal till golden brown. Once they are roasted well, allow to cool down.
- In a mixer, add in the roasted ingredients and the fresh coconut, dry red chilies, tamarind and jaggery. Add a little water and grind the ingredients into a smooth paste.
- Heat a stone vessel, if available, or a good skillet. Add oil, and splutter the mustard seeds and urad dal on low heat. Then add the curry leaves and the ground paste. Sauté for about two minutes.
- Add in the chopped eggplants and sprinkle with salt and sauté for at least 5 more minutes until they soften and
- are cooked.
- Add in the boiled drumstick, without any residue water and give it good mix. Check for seasoning and garnish with some coriander leaves and serve.
- Serve the vengaya sagle with white rice or neer dosa to make it a complete meal.
Kitchen Tips
- Choose eggplants with right size and colour for the dish
- Drumsticks should be fresh and tender or the dish will taste hard
- While trying out new recipes, stick to right measurements mentioned, else the taste may not be optimum
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of 'Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes'
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