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Puducherry kola fish curry: Dish that binds a community together
Puducherry is not unlike a circus — one sees several acts, at the same time, discovers seemingly endless layers beneath the fascinating and sometimes overlapping worlds, within a world. People from different cultures, communities and races have been drawn to this land over time, and now all of them call this place their home.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
However, it is the Tamil fishing community that must surely hold the strongest right to the title of Puducherry’s original residents. The fishing village of Vaithikuppam, which is down the lane from where I reside, has always fascinated me. The sound of the waves, the blue skies and the smell of chillies drying and fish laid out on threadbare gunny bag sheets, bursting ripe jackfruit being sold, fishing boats awaiting to sail, the cacophony of noises associated with a fishing village and its foreign visitors — all combined make our wonderful Puducherry to me.
I was keen to know the story of the kola or garfish and it was a very interesting one. Last month, I made my way down to the seaside and heard great excitement and laughter ringing in the air. One of the seventh generation fishermen, Mahesh, was well known to me. He managed to study hard, win scholarships, go to France and acquire a degree in financial management. After working for a few years, he has now returned home to make a success of his family fishing story. Exporting fresh and dried sea catch can be a great business, if operated well.
I noticed the smokes of camphor go up and a kola fish being held high. Camphor being offered to a fish invoked great curiosity in me. The haul of fresh fish lying there was kola, a seasonal variety. The belief is that if one catches kola fish, he or she should perform puja to the first one when it is still alive, and throw back into the sea. This variety of fish can be sourced only mid-sea, when the fishermen travel as a group. It is meant to bring great prosperity to the whole community.
My friend Jacqueline and I were invited to lunch with Mahesh’s family. We were seated on the sands, looking out at the big blue sea, the last of the boats coming towards the shores and fishing nets being pulled in, along with the smells of delicious fish curry emitting from most of the hamlets. Soon as the food was ready, we were going to eat sitting on wooden benches. Mahesh’s grandma served the food on a leaf and gave a little to a poor, old person she saw close by. It is said to be a custom in the community that whenever the kola fish was cooked. The act of giving acquired significance as a way of saying thank you to the sea. Each time a boat is pulled to the shore of Vaithikuppam, the excitement is palpable.
The garfish curry tastes delicious when made with fresh fish and minimal spices. It can be eaten with hot steamed rice and papads, and is a match made in heaven.
Puducherry Kola Fish Curry
Preparation Time: 15 min
Cooking Time: 20-25 min
Serves: 4
Calories per serve: 210 cl per serve
Ingredients
Flying kola fish medium size: 4
Shallots chopped: 20
Green chilli: 3
Tomato chopped: 1
Garlic chopped: 8
Tamarind: a small lemon sized amount
Chilli powder: 1/2 tsp
Coriander powder: 1/2 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/4 tsp
Curry leaves: 10 to 15
Cumin seeds: 1/2 tsp
Fenugreek seeds: 1/2 tsp
Fennel seeds: 1/2 tsp
Mustard: 1/2 tsp
Salt: 1/4 tsp
Coconut or groundnut oil: ¼ cup
Grated coconut: 1 cup
Whole red chillies: 2
Method
- Grind cumin seeds, coconut, fennel seeds, five shallots, and two red chillies with a little water. Set aside.
- Remove the heads from the fish, clean the skin and wash them well. Cut them into small pieces.
- Soak tamarind in a cup of water for 15 to 20 minutes. After it gets soaked well, mash it with your fingers and extract the tamarind juice.
- Set aside.
- In a pan, add the tamarind juice, 3 cups of water, coconut paste, red chilli powder, coriander powder, turmeric powder, salt and mix well. Set aside.
- In a clay pot, add oil and when the oil is hot, add mustard seeds and let them splutter.
- Next add fenugreek seeds, curry leaves, chopped garlic, chopped onions, chopped green chilli, chopped tomato and sauté well until the onions turn slightly brownish.
- When the mixture turns brownish, leaving the sides, add coconut tamarind mixture and stir well.
- Cook the masala for 5 minutes before adding the fish pieces.
- Cook in low flame for about 20 minutes until the curry becomes thick.
- Switch off the flame and add in some curry leaves.
- Coriander leaves are not part of the original recipe, but can also be added.
Kitchen Tips
- Fresh fish tastes best for the curry
- Never overcook fish, as it can crumble easily
- Ensure rock salt and turmeric are used to clean the fish thoroughly as the sea may contain a lot of toxins
- If you are going to be cooking the fish later, marinate it with lime, salt, turmeric and chilli powder. This ensures that it does not go bad
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of 'Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes'
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