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Philadelphia: Home to world’s most unique art museum and other surprises
The city lacks the frenetic pace of the Big Apple but has a remarkable ability to keep surprising you with experiences that will remain etched in the memory.
Chennai
When you think of the world’s best art museums, you will realise that they follow a similar pattern in terms of how they arrange the art. The Uffizi Gallery in Florence, Italy, is one of my favourite art museums.
Uffizi is a treasure trove of Renaissance-era paintings and includes masterpieces like Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation and Sandro Botticelli’s stunning ‘Birth of Venus’. Museums like Uffizi usually arrange art by period or specific artistes. It’s why I was in for a surprise when I visited Philadelphia’s famous art destination — the Barnes Foundation.
Philadelphia or Philly is a two-hour drive (or train ride) from New York City. This is the birthplace of America, where the declaration of American Independence was signed. It lacks the frenetic pace of the Big Apple but has this remarkable ability to keep surprising you with experiences that will stay with you for a lifetime. The Barnes Foundation is one such experience. Dr Albert Barnes established the A.C. Barnes Company in Philadelphia.
It was a progressive workplace, years ahead of its time. Dr Barnes organised his workers’ day to include a two-hour seminar in which they would discuss the writings of philosophers and examine original works of art. His private collection became one of the finest museums of art in the US.
It wasn’t a smooth path. Albert Barnes’ vision to democratise art was slayed by art critics in the 1920s but today the Barnes Foundation has earned its due credit, as an art venue that changed the way visitors appreciate art. Albert Barnes took an ensemble route arranging his collection in an unconventional manner mixing paintings, decorative art and utilitarian objects. The foundation’s collection has grown beyond 4,000 including, over 900 paintings valued at $25 billion with an impressive array of artists that includes Picasso, Renoir and Matisse.
The Barnes Foundation is not the only public attraction in Philadelphia that benefited from the singular focus of a visionary philanthropist. There’s Longwood Gardens, an hour away from downtown Philadelphia, among America’s most visited botanical gardens. This was once a farmland before being transformed into a scenic public garden spread over 1,000 acres by Pierre S Du Pont. It was the tulip collection that blew me away; you could spend a whole day here admiring a wide array of flowers.
Philadelphia is also a gourmand’s paradise. I had some fabulous meals around the city, but nothing quite beats a visit to the Reading Terminal Market, a food market that dates back to the 1890s. It’s among America’s oldest closed markets; locals drop by for fresh produce but it’s also the best spot in town for creamy Philadelphia cheesecake and the city’s unique cheesesteak.
There’s another art attraction that is a must-visit in Philadelphia and it isn’t just the art that is its calling card. The imposing steps that lead to the Philadelphia Museum of Art came to be known as the Rocky Steps in the 1970s. This is where Sylvester Stallone does his famous Rocky Run in the first Rocky film that has become a symbol of the underdog triumph. This has been reprised by fans and visitors who do the 72-step run for their spot of fame. Don’t leave Philly without the Rocky Run. It’s one of the many things that I can’t wait to go back to Philly for.
— The writer is a restless traveller who loves to keep peeling off layers in destinations across the world
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