Restaurant Review: Where history and food from the West meet the East

A plaque on this pale green bridge indicated that it was built “for the public interest” by Coja Petrus Uscan, an Armenian national. In 1966, this bridge was destroyed and replaced by Saidapet Bridge as we know it today. Wanting to infuse this history with the present, the Marmalong Restaurant opened its doors in March.

Emphasis has been placed on an ancient style of décor through two-tone wall paintings, bronze bricks and antique mirrors, while the cuisine is a meeting point between familiarity and innovation, or in the words of the restaurant’s team, “Integrating the right quantity of South Indian and international tanginess.” The papdi pizza bite — baked cocktail pizza made of papdi chaat topped with bocconcini cheese, mint and tamarind chutney — is one example of this East meets West cuisine. Of all the starters, the Bheja Toast (mutton rain pepper fry on a bed of toasted walnut brioche) is a must-try for non-vegetarians.

As far as the main course options go, they seem quite typical, but the chef has played around with small ingredients that make a difference. The Risotto Marmalong for instance has a strong influence of rocket leaves and pesto sauce, which lends a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth texture to the dish and leaves a refreshed palate. The corn-fed chicken with a maple glaze that sits atop pumpkin mash might seem disappointing because the meat is a tad dry and tough; those in favour of subtle flavours would enjoy this main course.

Since there’s something that everyone might enjoy, Marmalong comes off as a place that’s ideal for families or groups of friends to visit. Not just the food, the staff is happy to indulge diners in the history of Chennai and describe the art installations put up inside the restaurant.

Address: Esthell Hotel, 1, Royal Enclave, Besant Avenue Road, Adyar

Contact: 044 45510111 

Timing: 11 am to 11 pm

Cuisine: Continental, Chinese, Indian

Must-haves: Beef chukka tacos, Tartufo pizza, BBQ pork

Star rating (on 5): ***

Bisi bele bath, a rice-based dish from Karnataka, has been turned into arancinis of sorts by the chef but dismally falls short on delivering the flavour normally associated with this delicacy.

This appetiser consisting miniature galouti kebabs sandwiched between mini idlis covered in podi is an intelligent creation. An additional flavour is lent by the baked black olive tapenade.

The appetisers make for perfect accompaniments with a good cocktail, which the restaurant says they customise to every individual’s taste. Pick your poison and preferred flavours and voila, there you’ll have a personalised drink.