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Phulkopir Singara: A samosa in which Bengal meets Puducherry
If you’ve ever wondered what it is about food that creates bonds breaking all barriers it is the therapeutic and healing nature of food. There is never any occasion when eating does not become a major factor.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
Every year during the month of February, Puducherry comes alive with radiant energy. February 21 heralds the birth anniversary of Mirra Alfassa, known as ‘Mother’ of the Puducherry ashram. Sri Aurobindo was a spiritually awakened guru, who fled from the British rule in Kolkata and came and settled in this southern Union Territory to focus on spiritual transformation and bring about realisation amongst his followers.
Mother’s journey to Puducherry was also similar — she came on a ship from France and never went back, as she realised that her spiritual guide and guru was Sri Aurobindo. She slowly began slipping into the role of the ‘spiritual Mother’, which was a title that Sri Aurobindo bestowed upon her. While he concentrated on inner growth, she looked after the external affairs of the ashram and its devotees, which grew in number every day.
She established systems and various work areas. A school, hospital and the dining hall were built to meet the ashramites’ needs. Her theory was that once a person’s physical needs are looked after, man need not pursue money for survival but focus on inner growth.
In addition to infrastructure, farms were allocated to cater to the ashram’s needs. Naturally and self-grown pulses, vegetables and fruits from these fields are used in their kitchens to date. The modern kitchen caters to over 2,000 people and most of the staff comprises volunteers. The food prepared is nutritious, wholesome and tasty, combining a fusion of Puducherry and France. A typical meal consists of sambar/daal rice with fresh bread, yogurt made from cow’s milk, salads and a fruit.
Small eateries like ‘Cottage’ can also be found, which caters to the foodies. Delicious cashew nut rolls and samosas are made here and the latter tastes quite different compared to what is usually available elsewhere. When I visited the ashram for darshan, I asked one of the trustees, Maithri Prasad, what Mother’s favourite dish was. He did not have an answer to my question but from enquiring around, I was told that a soup and these samosas were here favourites that were very rarely made, but to her specifications.
The samosas take after a Bengali recipe and have become an integral part of Puducherry. Every nook and corner has a stall that sells fresh batches in the morning and evening, accompanied by sweet and spicy chutney. There are various types of samosas — 24 to be precise — but the Bengali is one of the most popular here. It is called Phulkopir Singara or aloo gobi ke samose. It is crisp and spicy and the gobi (cauliflower) is predominant compared to the aloo or potato. Since it’s a must-have for whoever visits Puducherry, I tried it out when I went for this darshan and it was so good!
Phulkopir Singara
Prep time: 45 min
Cook time: 60 min
Serves: 7
Calories: 360 cl per samosa
Ingredients
For the dough: All-purpose flour (maida): 2cups
Oil: 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Water: as required
Nigella (kalonji) seeds: 1 tsp (optional)
For the stuffing: Cauliflower: 1, cut into mini florets
Potato: 1 cup, cut into small cubes
Green peas: 1/2 cup
Grated ginger: 2 tsp
Cumin and coriander powder: 1 tbsp each
Green chillies: 3, finely chopped
Green mango powder (amchur): 1/4 tsp
Turmeric powder: 1/4 tsp
Coriander: 1 tbsp, finely chopped
Cumin seeds: 1 tsp
Oil: 1 1/2 cups for frying
Ghee: 1 tbsp
Asafoetida: 1 pinch
Kasturi methi: 1/2 tsp
Salt to taste
Method
- Prepare the dough by sifting flour and salt together, make a well in the centre and pour the ghee. Add salt and mix the dough with your hands and add the water gradually. Knead it well to make stiff dough.
- Cover the dough with a damp cloth and let it sit for 30 minutes or more.Heat some oil in a pan and add the cumin seeds, let it splutter.
- Add the finely chopped cauliflower and potatoes, sauté for few minutes till the cauliflowers become slightly browned.
- Add the green peas and green chillies, along with the other spices and ginger. Add green mango powder, cumin, turmeric, coriander powder and asafoetida. Add kasturi methi powder and salt.
- Fry for some time on low heat, add little water to keep the filling moist and finish it with the chopped coriander leaves.
- Mix well and when blended together and gets cooked fully, turn off the stove.
- Let the filling cool down a little bit.
- Knead the samosa dough once again and you will see that it has absorbed moisture from the damp cloth and is soft and pliable now.
- Divide the dough into big portions. Roll out each portion into circle on a greased surface. Cut the circle from the middle with the help of sharp knife. You will get two semi circles now.
- Apply some water with your fingers along the straight edges of the semi-circle and bring the two edges together to make a cone. Pinch the edges nicely so that filling does not come out.
- Put one heap spoonful of filling in the middle of the cone. Tuck the filling nicely and firmly.
- Now apply water with the fingers along the round edges of the samosa. Join the two edges together and pinch the edges properly to secure the filling inside.
- Make rest of the samosa like this. Keep them covered.
- Heat enough oil for deep frying in a kadai. Once the oil is warm enough, slowly add the samosas. Do not overcrowd it.
- Fry till the samosas are evenly browned. This will take around 15-20 minute. Keep flipping over the samosas from time to time.
- Slot them out on kitchen towel and serve hot or warm with tamarind chutney.
Kitchen Tip
- While boiling corn on the cob, add a pinch of sugar to help bring out the natural sweetness.
- While cooking cabbage, add a bay leaf. This will reduce the smell during cooking and also give a subtle flavour.
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes
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