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    Restaurant review: A resto-bar that’s back to put the ‘F’ in fine-dining

    With significant changes being made to the bar and furniture, and with a bit of space management, The Flying Elephant was relaunched recently.

    Restaurant review: A resto-bar that’s back to put the ‘F’ in fine-dining
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    Chennai

    But of course, the menu was revamped too, with the intention of introducing Chennai to the finest of cuisines flavours and produce from across the world. Executive Sous Chef Michele Dal Cero and his team manage to do so successfully.

    The first thing that one notices is how each dish that has been newly introduced, apart from some existing favourites, is a combination of unique ingredients that appear to be stitched together wonderfully. Something as simple as an addition of fresh mint leaves and parsley pesto to beetroot made in different ways can uplift the dish and provide a refreshing twist to its otherwise predictable flavour.

    The grilled meats deserve special mention for they have the ability to transport the diner to the Middle East just through smoky palates and an aroma of whole spices. The Shish Taouk (small plate) strikes the right chords and we were told its preparation entails soaking the chicken overnight in milk, marinating it in a combination of spices and herbs the next day before char-grilling and serving with Turkish bread and a salad.

    Healthy eating doesn’t necessarily mean sticking only to what your ancestors ate, said a cookbook author during an interview. “Given how well-travelled people are these days, it would be nice to incorporate the healthy foods and methods of cooking other countries follow, into our eating habits,” she said. That’s exactly what Chef Cero and co. have managed to achieve without compromising on originality, stylish presentation and authenticity.

    The flying elephant

    Address: Park Hyatt, 39, Velachery Road, Guindy

    Cuisine: Turkish, Continental, Asian

    Must-have: Ravioli Di Barbabietola, Lamb Adana Kebab 

    Timing: 7 pm to 1 am

    Contact: 044 71771655

    Star rating (on 5): ****

    A test for beets’ versatility 

    You’d have seen dishes of this kind being made on international culinary competitions. The humble beetroot was presented in the form of chips, puree, ravioli (stuffed with goat’s cheese) made from beet pulp, powder and a salsa — each with its distinct taste and texture.

    Marriage of sweet and salt 

    Take a minute to feel these delicate flavours come together to dance on your taste buds — roasted pumpkin ravioli with mascarpone cheese, candied (caramelised) walnut, and onion confit in a butter and sage sauce. Words can’t do justice to a dish like this.

    Selection of desserts 

    The finale of any meal and a factor that could make or break a diner’s will to return is dessert. Were we satisfied with The Flying Elephant’s signature chocolate cake, strawberry cheesecake, macarons and soft serve to go back? No, but the ambience and other courses compensated for it.

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