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Arusuvai Natarajan: Wedding cook who was a bigger draw than bride, groom
Arusuvai Natarajan, whose food was often regarded as the biggest attraction at weddings or Carnatic kutcheris, passed away on Monday aged 93.
Chennai
Such was his appeal that families hosting weddings announced that the food menu has been crafted by none other than the king of catering Arusuvai Natarajan in marriage posters. Needless to say, the food was the major attraction at the event.
Shanthi Vasan, whose grand niece’s wedding was catered to by him, said, “I learnt his secret recipe for his strong coffee from him. He said the milk had to be boiled well before adding the decoction. His service and professionalism date to the era when people were personally enquired about during weddings... not like in today’s age, when you determine earlier how much your guests will have by the measurement of a paper cup.”
Art critic Narayana Viswanath said that when it came to Arusuvai’s catering, there was no second opinion. “In fact, he was reckoned as the kingmaker, when it came to catering for a marriage or kutcheri. He planned the itinerary in such a way that it appealed to all age groups,” he said.
Arusuvai is also credited for being the first to introduce North Indian dishes on the traditional vazhai elai. Food curator and culinary consultant Rakesh Raghunathan said, “Be it the malpua, rabari or the paan that was inspired by Agra petha, he was extremely creative and was a trend setter.
Several celebrities, industrialists and politicians have had him cater for their weddings and functions. You knew it was a premiere wedding, if it was with him at the helm of food affairs.”
The family of cooks has been bestowed with the honourable title of Arusuvai Arasu by former President VV Giri. From marriages to two Maghamagam festivals, they have also catered for stalwarts like former President Dr R Venkatraman, Dr APJ Abdul Kalam and late Chief Minister J Jayalalithaa as well as the Ambani family.
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