CHENNAI: As we pass along the shore of Elliot’s Beach, a new space catches our attention. A vibrant diner with traditional décor using bangles and bamboo, the recently opened Rasanai is already drawing the young crowd in Chennai. As we step in, we are welcomed by the aroma of traditional dishes and the rhythmic sound of waves from the beachside seating.
Adding to the experience is a playlist of 2000s Tamil songs, which creates a soothing dining atmosphere. “Before curating the menu, our team of chefs travelled to each south Indian state to carefully observe and learn recipes rooted in those regions. When people think of south Indian food, many stop with idlis and dosas.
We wanted to offer the true depth and cultural richness of south Indian cuisine,” says chef Sheik Mohideen, culinary director. Reflecting this vision, Rasanai’s menu features dishes such as poricha parotta taco, Kovai paneer monica, avakkai broccoli, and more. “We believe such innovations are essential to attract youngsters. The key is striking a balance between authentic flavours and modern presentation,” he adds.
When asked about the challenge of running a restaurant at a time when ambience often takes precedence over taste, the chef shares, “It is quite difficult to predict the expectations of an ‘Instagrammable diner’. However, we believe keeping it simple yet exotic works. For example, when serving a traditional dish, we showcase innovation through modern garnishes like chutney foam, edible flowers, and microgreens.”
South Indian cuisine is expanding far beyond dosa and is gaining global recognition. Citing Chef Vijayakumar’s Semma in New York as an example of how regional cuisines can shine internationally, Sheik Mohideen notes, “Across the globe, south Indian food is booming. Following a similar path, we can creatively elevate presentation while staying rooted in tradition. This paves the way for sharing our culture with the world.”
Drawing inspiration from akka kadais, mess kitchens, and roadside stalls, Rasanai celebrates street food culture through a refined lens. To begin with, the Malenad mutton rassa soup stands out with its spicy, peppery broth. The mutton uppu kari follows, featuring juicy meat, while the crispy Kovai paneer monica caters well to vegetarians. The elai kalan porichathu is surprisingly light and enjoyable. Among the starters, the Vayakatta kozhi varuval is our least favourite, as it lacks depth of flavour.
Among the grills, the Malabar injicurry prawn skewers offer succulent meat, though the balance of spices could be improved. The chicken birria parotta taco is best enjoyed hot, as the accompanying dip adds an extra layer of flavour and complements the dish well. The elaneerum kozhiyum rivals a Thai curry, with its creamy coconut base blending seamlessly with Kerala spices. The chicken is cooked to perfection and pairs well with nool and bun parotta. We then move on to the aahani mutton biryani. With subtle flavours and tender mutton pieces, this dish is a definite must-try.
Apart from these, the restaurant also serves soft-shell crab, lobster, uruli soru, and several other traditional dishes with authentic flavours. The desserts reflect equal innovation. The jiggly gulkhand pudding and achchu murukku tart with paal paniyaram are ideal for those with a sweet tooth. For something different, the banana appe with vetrillai shots is worth trying.
The meal for two costs approximately Rs 1,800 at Rasanai Chennai, located at 6th Avenue, GOCHS Colony, Besant Nagar.