Chef Nilza Wangmo 
Chennai

A trek into the Ladakhi food trail with Chef Nilza Wangmo

Chef Nilza Wangmo draws similarities between the Ladakhi and south Indian cuisines, which according to her are rich in textures as well as flavours

CHENNAI: A little girl was born after her fathers untimely demise in Alchi, a small village in the Leh district of Ladakh. Now a chef, Nilza Wangmo watched her grandmother and mother cook for her large family.

“Food and cooking for loved ones has always been an integral part of my life,” chef Nilza says.

On turning 18, she and her mother started farming on her father’s property. This became her first introduction to holistically practicing sustainable farming and cooking techniques.

Being a proud owner of Alchi Kitchen in Ladakh, an all-women run restaurant, chef Nilza, who was in the city recently, highlights the significance of the Ladakhi cuisine.

You are an enthusiast for Ladakh's local food. Could you tell us a little about the specialty of the cuisine that you proudly represent?

People in Ladakh are people of simple choices. Our food is prepared using hassle free techniques, fresh and natural ingredients like wild herbs, organic vegetables and grains which are available locally in our land and gardens. So, I feel proud to present the dishes which are very simple and wholesome, packing a wonderful range of flavours. When you look at Ladakhi food, it might look bland for people trying it for the first time; but they are always bowled over with its robust flavours and texture.

Since it's your first time in Chennai, what takeaway do you wish for the audience here about the Ladakhi cuisine?

I would say if you haven’t tried the soup made from the cheese of demo (female yak), or the unique sourdough bread filled with unique fillings, or a traditional Ladakhi Pasta styled dish, or even a hearty pulao with apricots and mutton unique to Ladakh, Chennai needs to experience this. The city, though, certainly has an eclectic food scene.

What is your take on south Indian cuisine?

I like south Indian food very much as I find them to be very healthy as many are plant-based dishes. It is loaded with vegetables, legumes, and whole grains, making it a great source of fiber. I like the chutneys, but my personal favourite has to be the hearty appam and mutton stew.

What are the dishes from Ladakh that you will bring in for Chennaiites?

I am serving almost all the dishes which I serve in my restaurant in Ladakh. Sea buckthorn, barley, yak cheese, caraway seeds and apricots are some of the hero ingredients I use in my dishes. For this pop-up, my menu has a choice of appetizers, soups, mains and dessert, with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Some authentic favourites such as namthuk, a roasted barley flour and amp soup, yak cheese, mok mok which are momos made with vegetables and lamb, tain- fermented buckwheat pancake, will be available. O-skew, a Ladakhi orecchiette pasta in milk and yak cheese sauce, lamb yarkhandi pulao and apricot dessert from the Himalayan trails will be a unique experience.

Are there any similarities between the south Indian dishes and the cuisine of Ladakh? Could you highlight what the differences are as well?

There are a few similarities in both the cuisines, as I see it. There are common methods of cooking used such as steaming and boiling in both these cuisines. Both cuisines are also packed with rich textures and flavours. Ladakhi cuisine often employs barley and buckwheat, whereas south Indian dishes rely on rice and lentils. Ladakh’s extreme climate has taught us locals unique preservation techniques like sun-drying and fermentation, resulting in unique flavours as we are very committed to using locally available ingredients.

You are a proud recipient of the Nari Shakti Puraskar, where you empower women, running a successful woman led restaurant. Was it always something that you envisioned? What, according to you, is the best thing about running a women-led food business?

Actually, it was my late mother’s idea to hire only women staff as she believed women are patient, resilient and put all their love while cooking, and she was right. She was the strongest and only support I had. She used to take care of the kitchen, so I could run other errands. Women in Ladakh do all kinds of work. There are no social stigmas because we women need to take care of ourselves. Women are more independent in Ladakh than anywhere else. This is the best thing about running a women-led food business- to be empowered and empower those around me.

Do you think Ladakhi cuisine has gotten its due in the country and the global arena? How are you planning to take the cuisine to much greater heights?

I feel that the authentic popularity for Ladakhi cuisine still has to go a long way to reach the length and breadth of this country. While Ladakh is incredibly popular as a tourist destination, most eateries refrain from serving authentic Ladakhi dishes as they prefer to cater food that travelers are familiar with and prefer. There are only a few restaurants serving the universally popular mok mok (momos), and some basic snacks and desserts made of apricot. Therefore, Alchi Kitchen is the first-ever eatery in the mountain territory which started serving authentic and traditional Ladakhi cuisine, presented with a modern twist. I am honored to bring the food of my ancestors to cities and global dining destinations in leading five-star hotels across the country and believe this is a great way to expand awareness and appreciation for the cuisine.

Experience the culinary brilliance of Chef Nilza Wangmo as she presents her expertise in Ladakhi cuisine, ‘Leh Ladakh Food trails’ a pop-up at Stix, Hyatt Regency Chennai, today, for lunch between 12:30 pm to 3 pm, and dinner, between 7 pm to 11 pm.

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