Chennai

I first met him in Bengaluru, when he came to visit a unit of Defence Research and Development Organisation (DRDO) in Chennai, as the head of the country. I had been requested to choreograph some entertainment for the evening, planned in his honour, and also cook one dish. I presumed that Dr Abdul Kalam would like modern entertainment, as he had travelled so far and wide. I had the youngsters dancing to Jailhouse Rock by Elvis Presley, and the older people doing a classical welcome dance, to Vande Maataram. 

The former he sat through, but without any expression and the latter, he got up for and applauded enthusiastically. I later realised that not only was he simple, his tastes and likings also displayed humility and sensitivity that enshrined his love for India. Be it music or culture, it was Indian all the way for him; especially food as he preferred South Indian dishes like appam for break-fast and sambar for lunch. Dinner was standard rasam and rice. All this I gathered when I got ten minutes alone with him for an interview. We spent the time discussing food and how he had become a vegetarian and his favourite dish was what his mother used to cook — ari urundai kozhambu. 

His father leased out fishing boats and mother was a busy housewife. Along with Vedas, he picked up love for traditional southern food like the dish mentioned above. Called thakkadi or thikkudi, the dish is actually made with mutton but since Dr. Kalam turned vegetarian, meat was substituted with brinjal and potatoes by his mother.

Thakkadi originated when Arab settlers, who came as traders married the local Tamils and Sri Lankans and settled in these regions. Rice being the staple diet of the south, makes flour and dough derived from it a stellar supporting actor in any South Indian kitchen. Made by cooking rice flour in boiling water with a spoonful of ghee, ari urundai kozhambu is a must-have. 

The balls of rice obligingly accompany number of dishes, as its bland taste adapts well to any spicy curries or chutneys. In the olden days, it was cooked overnight, in large brass cauldrons, hung over wood fire.

Thikkudi – Ari urundai Kozhambu

Serves: 3-4 

Calories per serve: 280 cal.

Ingredients

Shredded/grated coconut: 1 cup | Roasted white rice flour: 2 cups | Tamarind paste: 1 tsp | Lemon juice: 1 tsp | Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tsp  | Red chilli powder: 2 tsp | Turmeric powder: 1 tsp | Cumin powder: 2 tsp | Coriander powder: 2 tsp | Green cardamom: 10 pods | Black cardamom: 6 pods | Cinnamon: 10 sticks | Bay leaf: 10 | Fresh curry leaves: 1/2 cup | Green chillies (diced): 4 | Ginger: 1 inch piece, grated | Garlic (chopped): 3 cloves | Tomatoes (chopped): 1/2 cup | Red  onions (chopped): 1 cup | Potatoes: 250 grams | Brinjal: 250 grams | Coco-nut/sesame oil: 1/4 cup | Rock salt: to taste | Coriander (for garnishing): 1/4 cup | Mustard seeds: 1 tsp | Fenugreek seeds: 1 tsp | Dried red chillies (broken into half): 2  | Cashewnut paste: 1/2 cup | Thick coconut milk: 1 cup | Water: as per requirement.

Method:

• Heat a heavy-bottomed pan.
• Add oil and once it is hot, add mustard seeds. Let is splutter.
• Next, add the fenugreek seeds and the dried red chillies.
• When they are slightly cooked, add the chopped onions
• While the onions are getting cooked, add chopped garlic, diced green chillies, ginger-garlic paste and chopped tomatoes.
• Then add bay leaves, curry leaves, cinnamon and cardamom one by one and sauté it.
• After the tomatoes get cooked well, add turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder and cumin powder.
• Add curry leaves.
• Let all the spices cook well. At this point add 3-4 cups of water to this and stir well.
• Now, add the cleaned potatoes and brinjal, which must be cut into squares, into this sauce.
• Next, add the tamarind paste. Allow it to cook for about 15 minutes, or till the vegetables are properly cooked. 
• While the vegetables are getting cooked, prepare the rice dumplings.
• Mix the rice flour and shredded coconut together.
• Add salt to taste. 
• Add chopped green chillies and grated ginger.
• To this mixture, add lukewarm water little by little and knead till the dough is soft.
• Let it rest for five minutes. 
• Make them into medium-sized balls.
• Steam them for about 5-7 minutes. Check the vegetables.
• Add salt to taste. 
• When the sauce has been reduced by half and the vegetables and all masalas are cooked, add the cashewnut paste. Add the rice dumplings and coconut milk and bring boil.
• This is the perfect time to add the rice flour dumplings into it.
•  Add the dumplings and stir very gently.
• Allow to simmer for about 10 minutes.
• Add the lime juice.
• Finally, turn off the heat and before serving, garnish this with coriander and curry leaves. 
• Serve the curry with rice, appams, chapathis or Malabar parottas. 

Kitchen Tip:  

• The original dish has meat, so instead of vegetables, add 500 gm mutton cut in chunks and cook for 30 minutes and then add the dumplings
• You can substitute meat with chicken, prawns or even boiled eggs
• This is an age-old recipe, so save it for the next generations! 

— The writer is a chef and author of Festive Offerings to the Gods 

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