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The book chronicles Finnegan's love affair with surfing and how it became "an obsession, a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life". "The tale starts when the author was an 8-year old kid who caught the surf bug. It helped him navigate a 'locals-only' elementary school on Oahu and those same skills — understanding another culture, finding common ground, courage and empathy — helped Finnegan find his way as a writer, husband, father. And a surfer," the logline read.

The project will be produced by Gaghan and Ted Hope under his multi-picture deal with the studio. Finnegan will serve as executive producer. Gaghan is best known for writing the screenplay of 2000 movie "Traffic" for which he won an Oscar. As a director, he has helmed movies such as "Syriana", "Gold" and most recently "Dolittle".

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