Bespoke clothing rests on the principle that no two people are alike. It takes into account that your gait, the way you raise your arms, the way you carry your shoulders, are particular to you, and you alone. Therefore the measurement and stitching of your clothing should be particular to you, and you alone. The word ‘bespoke’ comes from the verb ‘bespoken’ which means ordered, commissioned, arranged for. A bespoke shirt is one that is fitted for you, stitched to accommodate your every movement, designed for your very comfort.
Let’s first take a look at the process of creating bespoke clothing. Every aspect of a bespoke garment can be customized to your taste. For a shirt, you start off with choosing the fabric, cotton or a blend, the weave that you want and of course the colour. Depending on your physique and comfort requirements, you decide the kind of fit you want – slim, fitted or classic. You decide the collar – should it be a point collar or cutaway, you decide the finish for your cuff, French cuff or barrel with buttons. It’s the same for your trousers, you choose the fabric, the number of pleats, whether or not you want a cuffed bottom. Then there’s the craftsmanship to consider. After a precise array of measurements, you must have a at least three fittings with your tailor to make sure every seam is in place. To become a master tailor, a craftsman must go through years of training so that he is able to construct the entire garment – fitting, cutting, stitching by himself. A tailor must train extensively to perfect this art so that a piece of clothing falls seamlessly on your frame.
And there you have it – with your preference and a master craftsman hand, you have a garment that is single handedly crafted for you. This standard cannot be matched by the ‘one size fits all’ doctrine of global fashion today.
Because the garment reflects your preferences, you become co-creator in this piece of art. Perhaps that is why after all of these customizations, it is most appropriate to have your monogram on your shirt cuff and leave your signature of a piece of art.
— The writer is the director of Camessi, a brand that offers bespoke shirts and trousers for men